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When I boil lobster, I keep the focus on the fish. You make what's called a court bouillon -- just seasoned cooking water -- creating a saltwater base brightened by the acidity of wine and lemon, then enhanced with softer spices. But what really makes the difference is fresh bay leaves, because their piney astringency and citrusy essential oil are natural matches for shellfish. It's a simple thing with a big payoff.

Whether stored in a tank or on ice, the lobsters should not be lethargic; they should be alive and kicking. Before you spend good money on them, those lobsters better be snapping fresh. When you get them home, make the lobsters happy by placing them in the refrigerator under damp towels or newspapers, which will keep them moist and calm.

INGREDIENTS

* two 1 1/4-to-1 1/2-lb lobsters (leave claw bands on during cooking)
* 2 gallons of water
* half bottle of dry wine
* 3 lemon halves
* 1 cup kosher salt
* 4 fresh bay leaves
* 1 tbsp coriander seed
* 1 tbsp white peppercorns
* handful parsley stems (optional)

In a 10-quart pot, combine all ingredients except the lobsters and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. (The pot is so deep that by the time the pot comes to a boil, the spices will be infused into the liquid.)

Using the lid as a shield (to avoid getting splashed with hot water), slide the lobsters into the water head first, like a plane taking a nosedive. (You may need to use tongs to help keep them submerged for the first minute or so.)

Cooking time: Although the aromatics may be more concentrated after 15 minutes, lobster already tastes great. So I go for texture, pulling my lobsters at 8 minutes. You get really nice flavor in meat that is consistently tender. Use tongs to carefully remove lobsters from the cooking liquid. If you remove them sideways instead of pulling straight up, the trapped water will drain easily. Transfer to platter or cutting board to cool.

How to tell if lobster is done: Remove claw bands, pull back on the thumb claw, and wiggle it loose. If the cartilage pulls out easily and clean, your lobster is done.

HOW TO CRACK A LOBSTER

To minimize the work and mess of cracking and picking, do some breakdown ahead:

1. Remove claws. Place one hand on the body of the lobster to stabilize it and twist off each claw.

2. The goal is to remove the claw meat whole. Holding the claw at a 45 degree angle to the cutting board, strike the center of the shell with a knife, just until the blade is set, like an ax in a tree. Twist the knife and break the shell open. Don't use your best knife.

3. Remove the tail. Cup the end of the tail with your palm, (it tends to curl) and apply pressure with your thumb to the meatiest part, then twist the tail from the body, like you're giving your brother an Indian burn.

4. Cut down the back of the tail, keeping both hands on top of the knife blade. Then remove the vein, as you do with shrimp.

- Chef Bill Taibe


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