Caring for Palms
Learn more about palms, including palm selection, planting, and maintenance guidelines.
By TreesAreGood®
International Society of Arboriculture
Palms
Although palms are most prolific in tropical and subtropical regions, a few varieties grow in warm temperate regions. A wide variety of species are available with a range of characteristics that make them fitting for most landscapes.
Palms are Different
Palms are different from shade trees and conifers in appearance, growth, and care requirements. Unlike trees, a palm has only one aboveground growing point per trunk or stem. The terminal bud is located at the top of the palm’s trunk and is made up of the surrounding tissues.
The Terminal Bud
If the terminal bud is injured, the palm often dies. This is especially true for a palm with only one trunk. If the palm has multiple trunks, the plant will usually live on if only one trunk is killed.
Roots
The roots of a palm do not thicken like those of trees, and are less likely to damage sidewalks and utilities. New roots are generated at the root initiation zone, which is sometimes visible at the base of the trunk.
Purchasing Palms
Generally palms are grown at nurseries in containers, however, larger specimens can be dug and transplanted out of field stock.
TreesAreGood Palm Tree Nursery 1 by Ralph Ravi Kayden TreesAreGood®
High-Quality Palms
High-quality palms have a properly-sized root ball for the species and uniform trunk diameter consistent with the species’ characteristic trunk diameter. They also have a full crown of healthy, vigorous fronds. (Sabal palms are purchased with fronds removed.)
Low-Quality Palms
Low-quality palms may have trunk sections of varying diameter (“hourglass”) or small diameter below the terminal bud (“penciling”). Avoid trunks with wounds from mechanical impacts or incorrect pruning. Few fronds, poor color for the species, or disease or pest infestation may also be a sign of a low-quality.
TreesAreGood Palm Parts (2021-04-19) by Bryan Kotwica and Shawna Armstrong TreesAreGood®
Preparing to Plant
Step 1: Remove wrapping or container around the root ball.
Step 2: Remove dead or dying fronds prior to planting. Tie the remaining fronds and limit excessive movement of the palm head to protect the terminal bud during transport and planting. Remove ties after planting.
Planting
The planting hole should be about 18 inches (46 cm) wider than the root ball. Dig the hole deep enough so that when the root ball is placed in the hole, where the roots emerge from the trunk is about even with the surrounding soil surface or grade. Set the root ball on firmly packed soil to prevent settling. Gently fill the hole with the original soil where possible. Use water to settle the soil back around the root ball.
Mulching
Step 4: Apply 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) of organic mulch extending 2–4 feet (0.6–1.2 m) around the palm. Be sure not to pile too much right against the trunk. A mulch-free area reduces excess moisture and prevents decay.
When to Plant
The best time to transplant palms dug from a field where root disturbance can be severe is at the beginning of the warm season—early to late spring depending on the location. Palms from a container can be planted nearly year-round as the roots are usually not disturbed.
Pruning
Pruning is usually conducted at least biannually, however, coconuts may be pruned as often as every 3–4 months to minimize the risk of injury or damage from the heavy fruit. Homeowners should take great care to avoid any damage to the terminal bud. Over-pruned palms may have slower growth and may attract pests.
Pruning
Generally, remove old, dead, lower fronds only, unless otherwise required for clearance. Occasionally, live green fronds, where the frond shaft has descended below a horizontal plane, can be removed. Climbing spikes should not be used because they permanently wound the palm trunk. Wounds on palms do not close.
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