Courting Style
Explore a brief history of women’s tennis fashion
"TENNIS" (1887) by Childe Hassam International Tennis Hall of Fame
Tennis and Women’s Fashion
The connection between tennis and women’s fashion is as deeply rooted as the game itself is to society. Tennis, a popular activity since the 1870s, developed initially as a leisure activity that men and women could partake in together at casual social gatherings.
Pattern for a Ladies Tennis Costume (1888/1895) by The Delineator and The Butterick Company, Inc. International Tennis Hall of Fame
Early Tennis Fashion
Early tennis fashion developed out of the styles and fabrics already in use for other popular outdoor pursuits such as cricket and croquet. While initially born out of necessity, new designs and labels reflected the game’s evolution and growing maturity on and off the court.
These fashion decisions, both past and present, continue to reflect tennis’ timeless qualities of style and elegance while remaining rooted in, and respectful of, contemporary societal mores.
Postcard featuring two Asian women dressed to play tennis, ca. 1930 International Tennis Hall of Fame
The choices made by women for on-court apparel shed light on the role fashion plays in sport, providing insight into players’ personalities and the milestone moments of the champions who made their mark on the game.
Suesine Silk Adverisement from Vogue Magazine (1912-09) by Bedford Mills International Tennis Hall of Fame
From Victorian dresses to modern sportswear, women’s fashion has exerted a strong influence in how the game is perceived and consumed by the public.
Suzanne Lenglen (1920/1925) International Tennis Hall of Fame
1920s Fashion
The evolving nature of tennis style emerged quickly in the 1920s with Suzanne Lenglen’s loose-fitting sheath dress and abandonment of the corset.
1930s Fashion
A new athleticism arose during this period of practicality, and by the end of the decade, most players traded in their longer skirts and dresses for more comfortable shorts and skirts, and swapped street shoes for more lightweight tennis sneakers.
Helen Hull Jacobs' Outfit
In the 1930s, women's tennis fashion took another turn with the introduction of shorts, first popularized by Helen Hull Jacobs in 1933.
Ted Tinling with clothing hangtag (1952) International Tennis Hall of Fame
Ted Tinling - “The Leaning Tower of Pizzazz”
In the post-World War II era, femininity became associated with on-court style through the provocative designs of Ted Tinling. In the 1970s he became the official couturier for the women's professional tour. His flashy designs helped the women to show off their tennis prowess.
Anne White wearing white bodysuit at Wimbledon (1985) by Carol Newsom International Tennis Hall of Fame
By the 1980s, tennis sportswear had become mainstream and supported by player endorsements. The 21st Century is witnessing increased player involvement in design along with collaboration with high-end designers.
Agassi, Andre (1993) LIFE Photo Collection
Fashion choices continue to evolve along with the sport, each influencing the other.
Dress, tennis; US Open (Serena Williams) (2018) by Nike, Inc.; Virgil Abloh International Tennis Hall of Fame
Time, Technology, and Broader Fashion Movements
Like a ball across the net, tennis fashion continues to move. Time, technology, & broader fashion movements can influence it, but tennis fashion is shaped by the players. From Suzanne Lenglen's lithe liberation to Serena Williams’ tutu, tennis fashion is about self-expression.
Tinling's Tennis Fashions by N R Farbman LIFE Photo Collection
No two people play the sport the same way; nor will two players look the same. Tennis is a game of independence and innovation. While players aim to keep that moving ball within the lines, the evolution of tennis fashion knows no bounds.
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