Habitus Fidei

The robes of the confraternities: a journey through art, history and faith

By USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Digital exhibition curated by Lorenzo Cantoni, Alessandro Tosi and Charlotte Stachel

Habitus Fidei, Pisa, Museo della Grafica di Palazzo Lanfranchi , Simona Bellandi, 13.05.2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Habitus Fidei, Pisa, Museo nazionale di San Matteo , Beato Angelico, 11.06.2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Habitus Fidei, Lucca, Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Reparata , Simona Bellandi, 16.09.2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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AI Brother , Simona Bellandi, 23.11.2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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One exhibition, three cities and four venues. In Pisa, from 9 May to 29 June 2025, at the Museo della Grafica in Palazzo Lanfranchi and the Museo Nazionale San Matteo; in Lucca, from 17 September to 25 October 2025, at the Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Reparata; and in Lugano, from 7 to 23 November 2025, at Villa Ciani.

God clothed them

In the biblical account of creation, after sinning, Adam and Eve realise they are naked: the breakdown of harmony with God also leads to a loss of balance with themselves and with the world. The two make belts out of fig leaves, but it is God himself who clothes them in tunics of skin, taking care of them despite their fall.

God Clothes Adam and Eve (17th century) by Anonymous USI Università della Svizzera italiana

God, the first fashion designer

The 17th-century image, taken from the sub-choir of the Church of St. Francis in Quito (Ecuador), is particularly significant and unique. God the Father appears as a tailor draping and trying on clothes on the first humans, who are covered with fig leaf belts.

He stripped himself

According to Christian teaching – the Gospel – God incarnates in Mary and becomes man. Jesus Christ, God and man, is the new Adam, who offers himself for the salvation of all.
In the Gospels there are many references to clothing and perfumes, from the swaddling clothes in which Mary wraps her infant son to the white robes of those who announce the resurrection. 
The Gospels invite us not to worry too much about how we dress, and at the same time indicate that those who clothe others do a work that is worthy in the eyes of the Saviour.

Madonna Enthroned with Child and Saints Benedict Abbot, Scholastica, Ursula and John Gualbert (15th century) by Benozzo Gozzoli USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Baby Jesus naked

At first glance, the image may appear disorienting: Mary and the saints are fully clothed, while the newborn baby Jesus is naked... In this contrast, we can see the powerful figure of the new Adam, who comes to restore peace between God and humankind.

Jesus stripped naked (2025-11-23) by Simona Bellandi USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Jesus, the new Adam

In the Gospels, Jesus is naked – the new Adam – at birth, when he is baptised by John, when he undresses to wash his apostles’ feet, and when he dies on the cross.

Parable of the Prodigal Son (1593) by Jeronimo Nada USI Università della Svizzera italiana

The most beautiful dress, the ring, and the sandals

Two parables deal with clothing: one about a wedding banquet, in which those who do not have the proper attire are cast out, and one in which a father brings his son who asks for forgiveness a fine robe, shoes and a ring, signs of his restored filial dignity.

Put on Christ

With his death on the cross, Jesus saves humanity stripped of his clothes, which are partly divided and partly raffled off by the Roman soldiers. Paul of Tarsus, a 'skenopoiòs', or tentmaker, applied numerous images from the world of clothing and cosmetics to the life of faith. In particular, Paul invites Christians to be 'the fragrance of Christ before God', and he also writes: 'for as many as have been baptised into Christ have put on Christ'.

Magdalene with Brothers at Prayer (c. 1395-1400) by Spinello Aretino USI Università della Svizzera italiana

The scent of pure nard and a beautiful gesture

The Gospels tell of a woman who pours pure nard perfume on Jesus' head, often identified by tradition as Mary Magdalene. To those who criticise her, the Lord replies: "Why are you bothering this woman? She has done a beautiful thing for me."

Crucified Christ and two white penitents (Early 16th century) by Ansano di Michele Ciampanti (attributed) USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Put on Christ!

The image vividly represents Paul's teaching: Jesus dies naked on the cross, with two brothers at his feet in adoration, fully clothed – even with gloves and hoods. He stripped himself to clothe them with himself.

The confraternity robe

Confraternities are associations of lay people that have existed since the 7th century, became widespread in the Middle Ages, and are still very active today (there are over 30,000 in Europe, with around six million members).
Their habit — also known as a sackcloth — is usually very simple: it is an overgarment worn by members when carrying out the activities of the confraternity. It is usually complemented by a hood, belt, cape, and the insignia of the confraternity. The outfit may include a hat, gloves, shoes, staff, and other garments and accessories.
The colors of the garment often symbolically indicate the nature of the confraternity and its possible connection to a religious order.

The confraternity robe

Interview with the Prior of the Confraternity of the Holy Trinity and St. John the Baptist (Misericordia) of Serravalle Scrivia (Alessandria, Italy).
The confraternity robe is both a uniform, which makes everyone equal, and a divisa , which communicates the lifestyle choice of those who wear it.

Flagellation of Christ (Mid-14th century) by Giovanni di Nicola USI Università della Svizzera italiana

When you do penance...

In the processional banner, Saint Sixtus accompanies his brothers before Christ, who is being scourged at the column. The brothers wear hoods as a sign of humility, so as not to be recognised or praised, and they scourge themselves to become like their Lord.

Confraternity of St. Roch, Lugano , Hyphen-Group, 2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Confraternity of St. Roch, Lugano , Hyphen-Group, 2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Confraternity of the Holy Trinity and St. John the Baptist (Misericordia), Serravalle Scrivia , Hyphen-Group, 2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Archconfraternity of Our Lady of Tears under the title of Death from the Black Sack, Molfetta , Hyphen-Group, 2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Garments of the Confraternity of San Rocco in Lugano (garment in use, and previous garment); confraternity garment from the early 20th century (Ligurian-Piedmontese Apennine region); garment of the Archconfraternity of Madonna del Pianto under the title of Morte dal Sacco Nero (Molfetta).

When you give alms...

A passage from the Gospel indicates the elements on which each person will be judged, the so-called works of mercy : feeding the hungry, giving drink to the thirsty, clothing the naked, welcoming pilgrims, visiting the sick, visiting prisoners, and burying the dead.
Many confraternities have "specialised" in the practice of a particular work of mercy.

Register page of the clothed orphans of the Confraternity of St. Roch of Lugano (1858-1964) by Confraternity of Saint Roch, Lugano USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Clothe naked people  

Page from the register of orphans in Lugano, who received a suit of clothes each year from the Confraternity of St. Roch. This charitable work took place from the 17th century until 1964.

Habitus Fidei, Lucca, Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Reparata , Simona Bellandi, 16.09.2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Banner of the confraternity of St. Roch , Simona Bellandi, 1719, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Habitus Fidei, Lugano, Villa Ciani , Simona Bellandi, 23.11.2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Habitus Fidei, Pisa, Museo della Grafica di Palazzo Lanfranchi , Simona Bellandi, 13.05.2025, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Over the centuries, many confraternities have dedicated themselves to caring for the sick and burying the dead. Among these are the so-called Tuscan "Misericordie", which are still very active today, or the so-called "confraternities of good death", or those dedicated to St. Roch, a pilgrim saint who devoted his life to caring for plague victims.

When you pray...

In addition to penance and works of mercy, public worship is one of the main activities of the confraternities, often manifested through pilgrimages or solemn processions.
In particular, numerous confraternities are dedicated to the Eucharist—the Corpus Domini —or to Mary. Processions during Holy Week are also particularly frequent, commemorating the passion and crucifixion of Jesus, his burial, and resurrection.

Habitus Fidei, Pisa, Museo della Grafica di Palazzo Lanfranchi (13.05.2025) by Simona Bellandi USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Marian procession

Procession of the Venerable Company of Santa Croce (Rigomagno, Siena) with the statue of Mary (Habitus Fidei, Pisa).

Procession of confraternities in traditional dress

Jubilee of Swiss confraternities (Lugano, 12 October 2025). In the procession, the confraternities can be identified by their different costumes and banners. Here you can see the procession on the occasion of the Jubilee of Confraternities in Rome on 17 May 2025

Habitus Fidei, Lugano, Villa Ciani (23.11.2025) by Simona Bellandi USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Confraternity robes arranged in processional order

Habitus Fidei, Lugano

Good Friday procession in Mendrisio (07.04.2023) by Heinz Plenge USI Università della Svizzera italiana

Good Friday Procession

The confraternities played a central role in establishing and organizing the Holy Week processions in Mendrisio, which have been included in UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2019.

Credits: Story

Curated by Lorenzo Cantoni, Alessandro Tosi and Charlotte Stachel. 
Further information, including the catalogue and photos of the exhibition, are available on the dedicated website habitusfidei.art .
This story was also inspired by the prototypes developed by students of the Master's Degree in Digital Fashion Communication of USI as part of the Online Communication Design course, taught by Anna Picco Schwendener in the autumn semester of 2025-26.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

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