Mardley-zome

“Mardley-zome” is a dyeing technique in which varied patterns are created through stirring colored pastes. 

By applying the special technique of ladling used in suminagashi dyeing which was developed in the Meiji period (1868-1912), the art of transferring marbled paste dyes onto fabric was born in the Taishō period (1912-26). 

The lines flow naturally, delicately mixing into a fusion of colors that has a unique appeal not found in other dye methods.

The dye is mixed with Yuzen-nori (paste) made from starch, rice barn, and salt then the viscosity is adjusted to each color; the jiiro-nori (base color paste) for the dominate color and sashiiro-nori (enhancing color paste) for varieties of contrasting colors.

The main sashiiro-nori is applied first, and then the color(s) used as accents applied on top of the prepared jiiro-nori. The amount of each color paste is adjusted to the pattern.

When the desired patterns are completed, fabric is laid carefully on top of the dye paste, so that the colors adhere to the fabric.

With the sawdust still applied, the fabric is steamed. Extra attention must be made so that the paste doesn’t touch each other.

Heating the dry cloth makes it easier to shape the garment when tailoring and enriches the texture.    

The patterns, such as kuzaku (peacocks), kanze-mizu (water waves), yagasuri (arrowheads), shibori (tie-dye), tachidaki (waterfall), kaigara (shells), are created during the procedure by the placement of the sashiiro-nori and by the method of stirring. 

“Mardley-zome” can achieve infinite patterns using special tools to intersect dots and lines of various colours creating natural movement. Beyond the use for Kimono’s and small accessories, the technique seeks possibilities in a wide range of fields, such as western garments and home decor.