While the house of Calvin Klein is normally associated with simplicity and restraint, this season Francisco Costa took his brand of minimalism to an extreme. Rather than focusing on his usual experimentation with fabric and structure, Costa worked in a palette of pale pastels, using lingerie and fluidity in an array of sensuous dresses.

Costa began with the slip dress, a Calvin Klein signature still familiar to many, adding light touches to each permutation. We saw detailing ranging from sheer insets, light pleating, silk satin trims and airy peplums. But while these dresses, if a little repetitive, will surely find homes in the closets of nostalgic women hoping to recapture the magic of the late 90s, Costa also offered soft tailoring in silk crepe jackets and a lovely ivory vest paired with a beige wide-leg trouser.