Kate Bush, that 70s/80s musical icon and heroine of independent women everywhere, was the basis on whom Phoebe Philo, fashion’s own uncompromising torchbearer, built her Céline collection. The designer, also English, found thrall in the singer-songwriter — a reliable fashion reference à la Patti Smith — after attending one of her intimate mini-concerts this summer, the ticket of tickets.

In fashion terms, vintage Kate Bush is known for two things: leotards and ethereal nightgowny numbers. To be clear, however, Philo’s allusions were not literal, but evocative of her free-spiritedness and injected with a seasoned aversion to ‘pretty.’ Think super-shaggy, bottom-heavy dress hems; ultra-wide pants in a nylon-looking material; huge lapels or none at all; prominent cutouts in sweaters; and the biggest surprise of all, intentionally frumpy floral-print dresses. Ballet flats (with and without a heel) and chunky figurative jewelry completed the slightly awkward, ever-so-ironic look — all set to a classic Kate Bush soundtrack, naturally.