In more evidence that Raf Simons’ departure from Dior came as a surprise to company brass, his two studio directors — Serge Ruffieux and Lucie Meier, of ready-to-wear and couture, respectively — have been given the reins until a replacement is found.

Thrust into the spotlight, the two put out a respectable collection — if not a barn-burner — that brought together various trademarks of Dior, new and old. Trapeze shapes and further updates to the Bar jacket took center stage, nods to the New Look as interpreted by Simons. Meanwhile, exaggerated off-the-shoulder draping and flurries of over-embellishment may have hinted at the tenure of John Galliano, even if that would be too soon in many people’s eyes.