For his third couture outing at Maison Margiela, its Artisanal line, John Galliano elevated the notion of deconstruction and reconstruction so espoused by the house’s founder and managed to make it his own.

Galliano opened with ecru looks, presumably a reference to toiles and the promise they represent. But slowly, he introduced what appeared to be thrift-store finds and seemingly found 3D elements that wrapped around the body to dramatic, even comical effect. A polo shirt burst into a floral mini-dress while a bomber jacket exploded into sculptural strips of metallic brocade.

Galliano further exercised his (and Margiela’s) magpie nature by incorporating bits of hair, tattered men’s shirting, airbrushing, and several nods to David Bowie in the hair and makeup.

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