For his Chanel couture show, always a marvel of set design, Karl Lagerfeld recreated the maison’s original atelier on rue Cambon within the ‪Grand Palais‬, complete with working seamstresses on the runway, busy putting the finishing touches on the 70-something looks and staging live fittings while guests looked on.

With that as the concept, the collection itself remained classic Chanel. Tweed suits and boucle dresses, cut in sharp, origami-like shapes, were decked out in beads, flowers, and embroidery from the house’s own metiers, ending with a feather train on the bride not unlike the central showstopper at the current Met show, Manus x Machina.