A Comme des Garçons show is always unexpected, but this time it was more unexpected than expected. Rei Kawakubo has just finished her exploration of the world of Orlando for the Vienna Opera, thus completing several seasons devoted to costume on the runway. This conclusion was echoed with the first exit walking to the sounds…
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Artist is Present at Yohji Yamamoto
A tower of neon strip lights was erected at the models’ exit, giving the runway an almost gallery-like glow, which was fitting as it seemed like Yohji Yamamoto had been feeling crafty. The invitation was wrapped in black hand-felted wool, and came in a crisp cotton envelope, more than a hint of what to expect.…
Petals Aplenty at Dries Van Noten
“It doesn’t matter / What you create / If you have no fun.” The opening lines of the soundtrack ‘Party Girl’ by Michelle Guverich couldn’t have better described the girl on the runway tonight. And, perhaps, Dries Van Noten himself, who seems to be in particularly high spirits these days. Who could blame him, with the remarkable collections he keeps…
All the Colors at Comme des Garçons
To the sounds of techno god Jeff Mills’ recent release Aquarius, Comme des Garçons opened abruptly as several boys hit the runway at the same time, meandering into the space continuously in movement…
Art & Artifice at Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten held his men’s show in the same brutalist space that hosted his stellar collaborative collection with Christian Lacroix last season, behind the Opera Bastille…
Getting Graphic at Yohji Yamamoto
The first look tonight at Yohji Yamamoto reminded us of the iconic photos of Jamie Morgan, styled by Ray Petri, that defined the UK in the 80s and became known as the Buffalo style…
In the Clouds at Louis Vuitton
Cloud-filled and dream-like, Virgil Abloh presented his best collection for Louis Vuitton so far…
Relaxing the Rules: Lanvin Men’s Spring 2016
If Lanvin had a breakfast club, one would imagine that it would be like the house’s Sunday morning show…
Going Long: Maison Margiela Men’s Spring 2016
Maison Margiela is an interesting case study. Here is a cult fashion house whose elusive founder is retired, replaced by John Galliano…