This storybook Michigan island has no cars, 13 fudge shops, and miles of protected wilderness

If you've ever seen the movie, Somewhere in Time , you'll probably recognize Mackinac Island. The 1980 romance starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour is a cult classic that introduced generations of moviegoers to the island's storybook scenery. Even a New York Times reviewer who disliked the film admitted the island itself was "spectacularly lovely." I recently visited and can attest that his description still holds.

Lush forests and colorful gardens surround Victorian-era homes, while horse-drawn carriages clip-clop through the streets, making it easy to forget what century you're in.

Mackinac Island has banned cars for more than a century. Residents get around on foot, by bicycle, and in horse-drawn carriages. Even Amazon packages are delivered this way. I quickly learned that the lack of cars isn't a gimmick. It's a way of life, and over the course of four days, it became mine, too.

Without the metal-and-glass barrier of a vehicle, I felt closer to nature, my fellow humans, and even my own body. The birds seemed louder, and I paid more attention to the sound of the water lapping the shore and the wind rustling through the trees.

Carriage rides are a must, but I found myself gravitating toward bicycling and walking. I set aside time each day to explore, sometimes with a destination in mind and sometimes just to see where the road would take me.

Why are there no cars on Mackinac Island?

Mackinac Island's car ban seems almost radical in modern times, but it began for a practical reason.

When automobiles first arrived on the island in the late 19th century, they frightened the horses. At the time, horses weren't just used for leisurely carriage rides. They were essential transportation, and residents complained that the new "horseless carriages" were disrupting daily life.

Village leaders banned automobiles on July 6, 1898 . Aside from a handful of exceptions for emergency vehicles, the island has remained car-free ever since.

That means you can't call a rideshare or pick up a rental car when you step off the ferry. But you can walk, rent a bicycle, take a horse-drawn taxi, or book a carriage tour.

It takes a little getting used to. Horse-drawn taxis must be called rather than hailed, and you have to allow a bit more time to get where you're going. But that's part of the point. Mackinac Island forces you to slow down.

A carriage tour is a good way to get your bearings when you first arrive. Tours travel past historic homes, gardens, and downtown landmarks before climbing into the wooded interior. Along the way, guides explain the island's history and point out places you may want to revisit on foot or by bicycle.

Take a bicycle ride around the island

You'll see bicycles everywhere on Mackinac Island. There are bike rental shops near the ferry docks, or you can bring your own bicycle on the ferry for an additional fee. 

The island's best-known ride follows Michigan State Highway M-185 , which circles the shoreline for 8.2 miles. It's the only state highway in the country where cars are prohibited.

The route is mostly flat, so you don't need to be an expert cyclist to complete it. You can also take your time. There are rocky beaches, historic markers, and picnic spots along the way, and the views across Lake Huron compelled me to stop frequently. 

One of the most popular places to take a break is British Landing, where British troops came ashore during the War of 1812. There are picnic tables, restrooms, and a small seasonal food stand. It's roughly halfway around the island, making it a convenient place to rest before finishing the loop.

For a more challenging ride, turn away from the shoreline and head into the interior. Mackinac Island State Park has more than 70 miles of roads and trails. Some are paved, while others are better for hiking or mountain bikes.

The interior is hillier, and you'll probably feel some of those climbs the next morning. Still, it's worth it. The crowds thin out quickly, and before long, you're surrounded by forests, limestone formations, and birdsong.

See Arch Rock and Mackinac Island State Park

More than 80 percent of Mackinac Island is protected as Mackinac Island State Park . It was originally established as Mackinac National Park in 1875, making it the second national park in the United States after Yellowstone. The federal government transferred it to Michigan in 1895, and it became the state's first state park.

You don't have to travel far from downtown to reach the forest. Within minutes, the fudge shops and bicycle traffic give way to quiet roads shaded by maple, birch, cedar, and beech trees.

The island's most famous natural landmark is Arch Rock. The limestone formation rises 146 feet above Lake Huro n and stretches about 50 feet across at its widest point. From the viewing platform, you can look through the opening at the blue water far below.

Arch Rock is included on many carriage tours, but you can also reach it on foot or by bicycle. It gets busy during the day, so go early if you want to see it without a crowd.

There are plenty of other reasons to explore the interior. Sugar Loaf is a 75-foot limestone stack rising from the forest floor, while Fort Holmes sits at the island's highest point. The current fort is a reconstruction, but the location offers views over the treetops and out toward the water.

With so many trails, it's easy to find a quiet pocket of the island. Downtown may be full of bicycles, carriages, and visitors, but just a few turns into the woods can leave you feeling as if you have the place to yourself.

Visit the old fort

You can see Fort Mackinac high on the bluff as your ferry approaches the island. Its white walls overlook the harbor, and the views get even better once you climb to the top.

The British began building the fort during the American Revolution after deciding that Mackinac Island's high ground was easier to defend than Fort Michilimackinac on the mainland. The fort later passed to the United States, returned to British control during the War of 1812, and remained an active military post until 1895.

Today, Fort Mackinac has 14 original buildings, including the oldest surviving building in Michigan. The rooms are filled with exhibits about battles, military medicine, weapons, and family life at the fort.

Costumed interpreters lead demonstrations throughout the day, and you may hear cannon or rifle fire while you're exploring. It's loud, but it brings the history to life in a way that glass display cases can't.

Even if you're not normally drawn to military history, the fort is worth visiting for the views. From the bluff, you can look down on the harbor, downtown, and the ferries crossing the water.

Your Fort Mackinac ticket also includes several other historic sites around the island, including the Biddle House, Mackinac Island Native American Museum, the McGulpin House, and the Richard and Jane Manoogian Mackinac Art Museum.

The island smells like fudge

It's nearly impossible to walk through downtown Mackinac Island without smelling fudge. Shops line the main street, and many make it right in front of the windows, pouring the warm mixture onto marble tables before folding it into thick loaves.

Fudge has been part of the island's identity for more than a century. Candy makers discovered early on that people didn't just want to eat it. They also wanted to watch it being made.

During the busiest part of the summer, the island's 13 fudge shops produce around 10,000 pounds of fudge a day. You'll find classics like chocolate, peanut butter, and maple walnut, along with flavors involving cookies, caramel, cherries, and just about anything else that can be folded into sugar and cream.

Tourists have historically been called "fudgies" because they buy so much of it. The term may have started as a gentle insult, but these days, the island embraces it. There's even an annual Mackinac Island Fudge Festival. I flew home via Pellston Regional Airport, which sees so many tourists packing fudge that they announce fudge protocols before you pass through security (basically, you have to take it out of your carry-on since it confuses the scanners). 

You don't have to choose just one shop. Samples are easy to find, and half the fun is deciding which version you like best. Just remember that carrying several boxes becomes a little more noticeable when you have to bicycle back to your hotel.

What else to eat on Mackinac Island

You can't live on fudge alone, although Mackinac Island makes a convincing argument for trying.

Nearly 50 restaurants serve everything from pizza and burgers to steaks and Great Lakes whitefish. Many have outdoor patios overlooking the harbor or tucked into colorful gardens.

The Pink Pony is one of the island's best-known restaurants. Its waterfront patio is a popular place for cocktails and whitefish dip, and you can watch ferries come and go while you eat.

For lunch with a view, the Fort Mackinac Tea Room overlooks downtown and the harbor. Woods Restaurant feels completely different. Hidden in the island's forested interior, it serves Bavarian-inspired food inside a Tudor-style mansion. It also has live piano music and a historic duckpin bowling alley.

Stay at The Inn at Stonecliffe

I stayed at The Inn at Stonecliffe , a historic estate on the island's beautiful west side. The inn is about 1.7 miles from downtown, so it was close enough to visit, but far enough away to feel serene and quiet. 

The mansion was built in 1904 as a private summer estate. In 2024, it reopened after a $40 million renovation that updated the rooms and public spaces while preserving original details like stone fireplaces, dark woodwork, and leaded-glass windows.

Guest rooms are spread between the historic Mansion and the Summer House. The property also has private cottages with kitchens, living areas, patios, and multiple bedrooms for families and groups.

The renovation added two swimming pools, a wellness center, a general store, and a bicycle pavilion. Bikes are especially useful here because of the distance from downtown.

My favorite part of the property was the lawn overlooking the Straits of Mackinac. Adirondack chairs face the water and Mackinac Bridge, and you can order food and drinks without leaving your seat. It's an easy place to lose track of time.

The Straits, the inn's main restaurant, serves breakfast and dinner. You can eat inside, but when the weather cooperates, it's hard to resist taking your meal outdoors.

I loved returning to the inn after spending the day sightseeing. The carriage ride back gave me time to wind down, and once I arrived, there was no traffic, nightlife, or street noise competing with the sound of the trees.

The inn is owned by the Pulte Family Charitable Foundation, and 100 percent of its net profits support charitable causes. That means a stay helps fund nonprofit work while giving you one of the most peaceful places to sleep on the island.

How to get to Mackinac Island

Mackinac Island sits in Lake Huron between Michigan's Upper and Lower Peninsulas. There's no bridge to the island, so most visitors arrive by ferry from Mackinaw City or St. Ignace.

You'll leave your car in a day or overnight lot near the ferry terminal. The ferry ride typically takes less than 30 minutes, depending on the route and weather. Some seasonal trips travel beneath the Mackinac Bridge before heading to the island, which adds time but gives you a much better view of the bridge.

If you're flying, Pellston Regional Airport is the closest commercial airport to Mackinaw City. You can also fly into Traverse City or Detroit and make Mackinac Island part of a longer Michigan road trip. The island has a small airport for private and charter flights.

Most hotels, restaurants, and attractions operate from spring through fall. Summer has the warmest weather and the most activities, but it also brings the biggest crowds. Late spring and early fall are cooler and quieter.

Pack layers and bring comfortable shoes. You'll walk more than you expect, even if you plan to use bicycles and carriages. That's not a warning. For me, it was one of the best parts of the trip.

After four days, I had grown used to hearing horses outside instead of engines. I liked walking to dinner and getting on a bicycle simply because I wanted to see what was down the road. Mackinac Island is beautiful, but what stayed with me most was how it felt to move through it. Life slowed down, and I was happy to embrace the slower pace.