This Classic Retro Dive Watch Is Almost Unrecognizable After an Unexpected Makeover
I dare say it's more beach-ready than ever.
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Doxa is one of the most famous makers of dive watches in the world, and the most distinguishing feature of its watches is their brightly colored dials.
The original Doxa Sub 300 from the 1960s debuted with a bright orange "Professional" dial , with the idea that it would be more visible underwater. Unfortunately, orange is one of the first colors to disappear as you descend underwater, but the color stuck around anyway, and has since been joined by the similarly bright "Divingstar" yellow and "Aquamarine" turquoise as the most recognizable shades in Doxa's core collection of divers.
But how would a Doxa dive watch look with a dull-colored dial and a bit of added texture? As it turns out, it's pretty spectacular, as the new Doxa Sub 200 Dune proves.
Sands of time
The new Doxa is a collaboration between the Swiss watchmaker and St. Maarten-based retailer Art of Time. The idea behind the Dune was to capture the feeling of being on a Caribbean beach with the sand-inspired dial, and I'd say they've done just that.
The retro skin diver vibes of the Sub 200 are a perfect match for the sandy dial's warm bronze tones. - Credit: Doxa
The dial has an interesting sand-grain texture — nothing I haven't seen before, but I tend to like the style. And while brown dials can be tricky to pull off, Doxa did a nice job here by making the dial gradient. It's light in the center and darker on the edges, which makes the dial more vibrant and active to better represent the "windswept dunes under a tropical sun" look that Art of Time was aiming for.
Another smart move on this collab can be found in the model chosen. Rather than going for Doxa's flagship Sub 300 or 300T, they went with the simpler Sub 200 skin diver. With its stripped-down layout, black ceramic bezel and classic retro vibes, the watch proves a perfect fit for the sandy dial. I especially like how the bronze color of the lumed fauxtina markers of the bezel complements the warm sandy tones of the dial.
The caseback has a map of the Caribbean colored blue via laser-induced oxidation to prevent fading. - Credit: Art of Time
The caseback also gets a special makeover here, with a blue map showcasing a map of the Caribbean, where St. Maarten is located. Doxa's fish logo appears prominently in the center of the ocean, which has been colored blue with laser-induced oxidation that won't fade over time. The pairing of sand on the front of the watch and sea on the back was a deliberate choice to tie the diver to Art of Time's island home.
Pricing and availability
Like other Sub 200 divers, the watch boasts 200m of water resistance, a box sapphire crystal, a 42mm stainless steel case and a Sellita SW200 automatic movement inside. Unlike other Sub 200 divers, it's limited to just 100 pieces, making this quite a rare watch.
Rarer still is the process one has to go through to purchase one. The watch is priced at $2,090, which includes a beads of rice bracelet and a black rubber strap, and it's available exclusively through Art of Time — but you can't purchase one on the store's website. Instead, you have to email Art of Time at [email protected] to register your interest and, potentially, reserve a Doxa Sub 200 Dune for yourself.
Doxa Sub 200 Dune
Specs
| Case Size 42mm |
|---|
| Movement Sellita Cal. SW200 automatic |
| Water Resistance 200m |
About the Author:
Johnny Brayson is an editor at Gear Patrol mostly covering watches. He enjoys watches that are packed with blink-and-you'll-miss-'em details and believes nearly every watch could stand to be a tad smaller.
