Seiko’s New Tool Watch is a Leveled Up Version of An Affordable Classic
The new time-date Prospex Speedtimer has a fun feature reminiscent of a deep-cut 5 Sports model from the 1980s.
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At first glance, a three-hand, time-and-date watch feels wildly out of place in Seiko's Speedtimer collection , home of its most storied chronographs.
Upon closer inspection, one detail connects the dots, and it is something you don't often see from the Japanese masters of horology .
The SPB513 and SPB515 have inner rotating bezels with a countdown scale. - Credit: Seiko
The new SPB513 and SPB515 are part of a massive Prospex Speedtimer expansion that Seiko released this week. It includes the most interesting update to the mechanical Speedtimer in years and a collaborative trio with Datsun .
The rest of the drop greatly overshadows the two time-and-date watches, but it would likely be a big deal if they were released individually. This new Prospex Speedtimer model features an inner rotating bezel with a countdown timer.
The bezel is operated by turning the crown at four o'clock. - Credit: Seiko
Seiko rarely makes inner rotating bezels, with the Prospex Alpinist with a compass bezel being the only contemporary example. You have to dig through the Seiko archive back to 1982 to find another watch resembling this new Speedtimer, and it's a deep-cut gem.
Three, Two, One Go!
One of my favorite pastimes is researching old Seiko models from the late twentieth century. When the original Seiko 5 Sports collection was in full swing, it included the 6319 series with an inner rotating bezel.
The time-and-date Speedtimer comes on the new Speedtimer steel bracelet. - Credit: Seiko
It was produced from 1968 to 1982 and was a general tool watch useful for diving, driving and daily wear. The dial had printed rectangular markers and a day-date complication
The hands were remarkably similar to the new Prospex, except that the seconds hand had a lume dot. The other big difference is that the 5 Sports was outfitted with a forward-counting 60-minute track.
The dial has lume on the minute hand, hour hand and hour markers. - Credit: Seiko
The new time-and-date Speedtimer has a 60-minute countdown bezel, meaning it runs clockwise from 60 to zero, with the final 15-minute segment in orange. This ties the watch to the collection's racing theme and makes it a fun novelty in Seiko's vast library.
Under the hood
Even though the new time-and-date Speedtimer resembles an obscure 5 Sports, it has nothing in common with the modern entry-level reboot. This is a far superior watch, with a more impressive movement and elevated finishing.
The faded black and creamy white dials match the retro theme of the new Speedtimer drop. - Credit: Seiko
The reference numbers reveal that the SPB513 and SPB515 have more in common with the Alpinist series than the Speedtimer series, at least mechanically. The Alpinist reboot under the Prospex label has used the SPBxx reference designation.
A look under the hood reveals that the time-and-date Speedtimer runs on a new evolution, caliber 6R55, of the movement that powers the modern Alpinist, caliber 6R35. The caliber 6R55 movement was introduced in 2023 with the King Seiko reboot .
It also has double the water resistance of the 5 Sports dive watches, making it a fully capable diver if you can work with a countdown bezel.
The gear-shaped crowns are a dual reference to watch movements and car engines. - Credit: Seiko
Seiko is brilliant at easing in new designs. The creamy white SPB513 dial and faded black SPB515 dial, both with faint vertical brushing, are safe crowdpleasers.
Bolder color combinations will likely follow because the retro racing tie-in begs for it.
The only problem with Seiko's imaginative expansion of the Speedtimer collection is that it debuted in a crowded drop of heavy hitters. Once the dust settles, this watch will get the attention it deserves.
Availability and pricing
The Seiko time-and-date Speedtimer will be available from Seiko and authorized dealers in September 2025 for $995.
Both references come on the new Speedtimer steel bracelet, which replaced the three-piece connecting links with solid ones to eliminate the tiny slots prone to catching arm hair.
A third, limited-edition example in the Datsun capsule comes on a leather racing strap.
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SPB513
Specs
| Case Size 40mm |
|---|
| Movement Seiko caliber 6R55 automatic |
| Water Resistance 200m |
About the Author: Brad Lanphear is an associate editor at Gear Patrol covering watches and style. Before joining the publication, he previously wrote for Heddels and Men's Health. Now, he's on a never-ending quest to find the perfect pair of Japanese denim.
