6 ways I've upgraded my desktop PC without buying new hardware

Times are tough for us PC enthusiasts. Nvidia's RTX 50 Super is most likely done for , RAM and SSDs cost a bazillion dollars each, and we're all left to rely on things like Lossless Scaling to get us through the day when new games need newer hardware. I wanted to upgrade my PC a bit this year, but all of that is on hold until the prices calm down. (They will one day, right? ... Right?)

Instead, I'm giving my PC a tangible boost without spending a penny. Here's how.

I enabled the full speed of my RAM

RAM costs a fortune and you might not even be using half of its potential

I assume you don't live under a rock, so you're well aware of the state of the RAM-pocalypse . RAM is so, so expensive. I wanted to buy more for my PC (and to gift some to my mom, who can't live without at least 200 browser tabs open, and no, I'm not exaggerating), but yeah. I'm waiting, as should you.

Fortunately, you can boost your existing RAM by unlocking its maximum, overclocked speed in the BIOS/UEFI. Most RAM kits will advertise their overclocked speed on the box, but they usually don't run at that speed out of the box. For instance, my DDR5 RAM ran at around 2000MHz before I went into the BIOS and fixed it; now, it's at 6000MHz.

I turned on Resizable BAR

My graphics card already had a free performance perk

Resizable BAR, or ReBAR, is one of those features that can sit disabled for years even though all your hardware supports it. Ordinarily, the CPU accesses your GPU's VRAM in tiny bits, but ReBAR lets it access much larger portions at once, which can improve performance in supported games. (By the way, AMD calls its version Smart Access Memory, but the basic idea is roughly the same.)

I enabled Above 4G Decoding and Resizable BAR Support in my BIOS, then confirmed it was active in my GPU software. The gains vary wildly from game to game, and sometimes there's zero difference at all, but even a few extra frames are welcome when you already paid for it and it costs you nothing extra.

I undervolted my processor ...

Not to be confused with overclocking

Overclocking vs. undervolting is still confusing, so let me explain: Overclocking gives your CPU more power so it can run faster. Meanwhile, undervolting goes in the opposite direction by reducing how much voltage the CPU receives while keeping its usual speeds.

I know what you must be thinking: So how is this an upgrade?

Well, your CPU may need less voltage than the default. Undervolting reduces its temps and power consumption, stopping the CPU cooler from working overtime, too. You might even be able to maintain boost clocks longer. On the other hand, undervolting too aggressively can cause crashes and errors, so undervolt in small, small, small chunks and test thoroughly after each.

... And then I undervolted my graphics card

The same GPU just became better

Hey, what do you know, you can undervolt your GPU, too. And yes, it's still good.

Modern GPUs consume so much power and generate lots of heat. But if you use something like MSI Afterburner, you can adjust the relationship between the GPU's voltage and clock speed. The goal is to reach roughly the same performance while consuming less power and generating less heat.

My GPU now runs cooler and quieter without sacrificing any of its gaming prowess. Win-win, am I right? Also, an undervolt can even stabilize performance because the card is less likely to hit its temp or power thresholds, so that's good, too.

I took a close look at my fan curves

The default settings weren't great

Fan curves make the difference between a PC that sounds like a Harley Davidson and a PC that's (relatively) quiet. A brief CPU temp spike can send your fans into high speed, and I don't know about your computer, but my PC is loud when gaming. I have a whole bunch of fans and a pretty loud AIO.

Anyway, rebuilding the fan curves in the BIOS helped. Using Fan Control for more precise adjustments inside Windows can help, too. You can add gentler speed increases and delay the fans' response to short temperature spikes. They can still ramp up during steady workloads, so you won't miss out on a thing. Your case fans can also respond to GPU temps instead of only watching the CPU, which is a lot more useful while gaming (in most titles).

I rearranged the fans I already owned

Optimized airflow = happy PC

Fan curves only control how quickly your fans spin, but they have no say in the actual airflow inside the case. So, another thing you can do (which I've also done a good while back) is check the arrows printed on each fan frame and make sure the front fans are pulling cool air into the case while the rear and top fans are pushing warm air out.

Adding more fans is nice, but not necessarily that helpful if the airflow path is wrong in the first place.

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Bonus: I gave my PC a clean (but that's not unusual, and that's the point)

Giving your computer a regular, thorough clean is the cheapest upgrade out there . A dusty PC will never perform at its best. Restricted airflow forces fans to spin faster and can raise component temperatures, which leads to thermal throttling. Set aside an hour once a quarter to give your PC a little clean, and then a more thorough one once a year or so.