Forget Brighton – plucky Hastings is the south’s most exciting seaside town

For many years, Hastings and St Leonards-on-Sea have sat in the shadows of Brighton . But no longer. These East Sussex towns, layered with centuries of history, excellent independent restaurants (the towns are passionately resistant to chains) and quirky cultural events that bring locals out on to the streets, are increasingly exciting to visit.

The two are inseparable – you couldn't visit one without drifting into the other, especially on a walk along the shingly beachfront or through the colourful Bottle Alley, a 1930s promenade made from thousands of pieces of multi-coloured glass embedded in concrete panels.

It's also a particularly fun time to go: Hastings missed out on the 2028 UK Town of Culture title, but has decided to embrace the town's creativity with its own community-rooted version, with a roster of events and openings on the horizon.

Then, of course, there's the beach. In the summer, the stones are speckled with eager swimmers and rainbow-hued parasols, but don't rule out an autumn or winter escape, when pubs (there are dozens) are extra cosy and saunas particularly restorative.

I always recommend starting in Hastings Old Town to get the lay of the land. This was once one of the Cinque Ports, with a fascinating history of storms and smugglers that extends far beyond the 11th-century castle that's depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry .

Then, leave another day or two to eat, sauna and stroll your way around more bohemian St Leonards, first built as a seaside wellness retreat in the Victorian era by James Burton, the original DFL (Down From London – a name given to the town's newer residents who've moved south from the English capital).

What to do

Explore Hastings Old Town on foot

£ | ohps.org.uk/walks

Get your bearings with a fascinating stroll around Hastings with the Old Hastings Preservation Society. These guided walks are a must-do, with context given to the area's geography and history, from the Battle of Hastings to the stories of Hastings' fishing fleet (this is one of the UK's last remaining spots for beach landings).

As you go, you will appreciate the Old Town architecture, from 15th-century timber-framed homes and the former site of the Swan Hotel coaching inn – once the hub of all coach travel to London before the railways arrived in the 1840s – to grand Regency houses.

You'll stroll through "twittens" (narrow alleyways linking homes), beneath bunting on George Street and see the homes of former notable residents, including Catherine Cookson and Dr Elizabeth Blackwell, the first female doctor in the UK. If you can't do that, visit the free-to-enter Hastings Museum instead.

Hastings Castle

£ | hastingscastle.org.uk

This historic castle ruin has clifftop panoramas of the sea town, and hosts an exciting and highly creative programme of events. Sign up for early-morning yoga with serene sea views from Lior Wellness , stargazing sessions, or moth-spotting tours for kids, or time your visit with the Bayeux Tapestry-inspired animations that will illuminate the castle this September.

The view of the sea and Old Town is excellent from the West Hill. Grab a coffee and fancy ham and cheese toastie from the West Hill Kiosk to accompany the views. If you have more time, venture up the East Hill and take a coastal stroll through the Firehills towards Fairlight, looking out for wild ponies as you go.

Antique shopping

£-£££ | visithastings.co.uk

Hastings and St Leonards are crammed with antique shops, where you can pick up anything from battered Ordnance Survey maps to ornate chandeliers. You'll find plenty of antique shops to rummage through in the Old Town (include the five-floor Hastings Antiques Warehouse and Butler & George in your wander). Pitch , in St Leonards, is a newer addition, and houses a carefully curated selection ranging from antiques to contemporary objects from Laura Low, an interior designer.

Galleries

£-££ | visithastings.co.uk

Art lovers should pause at the Hastings Contemporary at Rock a Nore (it hosts rotating modern art exhibitions, some free), refuel with a coffee while browsing the upstairs gallery at Good Grades and visit Lucy Bell Gallery in St Leonards for fine art photography. Previous exhibitions include work from Brian Aris, the photographer renowned for his portraits of George Michael.

Saunas

£ | samphiresauna.co.uk

Hastings and St Leonards punch well above their weight in wellness offerings. On Hastings Pier, Samphire Sauna is one such space, with several saunas, including a 10-seater barrel sauna and changing rooms painted in colourful murals from local artists including Elizabeth Power and Nicola Jones. It's located high above the water, meaning you can take in sparkly sea views with your post-sauna cold plunge or bucket shower (or you may venture down the steps for a swim). You can book private sessions or sweat it out inside with others.

Where to eat

Foodies will enjoy the towns' burgeoning dining scene: they are crammed with new and independent restaurants, some run by local individuals that fancy baking over graphic designing, others from chefs moving in from London and Brighton.

You could try a multi-course tasting menu at a boundary-breaking new restaurant in Hastings new town one day, and dine out at a seafood-serving institution the next. Mingled among this are colourful beachside cafés, bagels that rival those found in New York and Brick Lane and, of course, plenty of gelato, ice cream and vinegar-drenched fish and chips.

Tonka

££ | tonkahastings.co.uk

This casual, light-flooded restaurant on the seafront has an ever-changing lunch and dinner menu of Mauritian fusion cuisine. Everything is fantastic (particularly the prawn-toast-stuffed courgette flowers, if they are on). It's tempting to over-order when everything sounds so delicious, but try to resist. Portions are pleasingly big.

Coquina

££ | coquinarestaurant.co.uk

Hungry on a sunny day? There's no better place to be than taking in the sea views from the terrace of this tapas restaurant located above Hastings Contemporary. Tuck into patatas bravas , tortilla and sobrasada on toast, or make the most of happy hour with two vermouths plus crisps and gildas for £15. It's the perfect pit stop after a day of sightseeing.

Lury

£££ | luryrestaurant.com

Jack Lury, a chef, has drawn on his Sri Lankan, European and British heritage to create an ever-changing but always outstanding 12-course tasting menu that's a steal at £85. The 10-cover restaurant is located in the basement of a converted Edwardian town house in Hastings New Town. For anyone keen to meet the chef, Lury will present some dishes, and is always up for a post-service chat about food or one of his other great passions: Bruce Springsteen.

The Royal

££ | theroyalstleonards.co.uk

Chef James Hickson used to work in some of the best pubs and restaurants in London. In 2019, he brought his experience and creativity to a rundown railway pub, spruced it up beyond recognition and created one of the best gastro pubs in the country. I love it any day of the week, but there are incredible-value two-course and three-course set menus Monday-Thursday (£24-£28), which you'll enjoy in the softly lit restaurant, with its moody green walls and wooden floors. Afterwards, stop for a cocktail at Cactus Hound , 30 seconds away.

St Clement's

££ | stclementsrestaurant.co.uk

This reasonably priced and longstanding local favourite (thanks, in part, to the lovely service) is tucked away in the backstreets of St Leonards. It's primarily a seafood restaurant, with a menu dictated by the catch of Hastings' small, sustainable fishing fleet, but don't skip the house-made ice cream and puddings – the chocolate éclair is a must. Afterwards, head to Ritual around the corner for cocktails.

Goat Ledge

£ | goatledge.com

Goat Ledge is the defining seaside spot, a rainbow-hued café with mostly outdoor seating, right on the boardwalk and stones. Swing by in the morning for a coffee – beans are roasted less than a mile away at Hundred House Coffee – and Sunrise Sandwich with smoked haddock and egg. Or, visit later for locally made beer, wine and a menu of loaded crab fries and fish-finger sandwiches. The evening "Fire on the beach" menu of skate wing with sobrasada peppers and green beans is excellent.

Sleeper

£ | thesleeperstore.co.uk

One of the best breakfast spots in town is Sleeper on Kings Road, St Leonards. The egg mayo with truffle crisps is the signature bagel, but every newly launched special causes a ripple of excitement in local foodie WhatsAapp groups. That said, you can't go wrong with 12-hour-smoked salt beef, pickles, cheese and your choice of mustard. Once they're gone, they're gone, so visit early.

Farmyard

££ | farmyardwine.com

You'll be happy at this small, relaxed St Leonards restaurant at any time of day, but the lunchtime special, when three small plates plus a glass of red, white or orange wine, costs just £19.50, is hard to resist. If you prefer fish, Boatyard, their sister restaurant in Heist food market, has the same deal for £18.50.

Where to drink

In the early 1900s, Hastings Old Town was home to 90 pubs and beerhouses ; today that figure is 16. Despite the decline (the never-ending list of things to do in modern life has its drawbacks), what remains are some of Sussex's most stand-out places to drink.

It's perfect pub-hopping fodder, with live music and local beers on tap, and plenty of delicious snacks to snaffle along the way. Towards St Leonards there's a newer, cooler drinking scene, with cocktail bars and wine bars among gastropubs and hole-in-the-wall bars right on the wave-lashed shingle.

The Crown

££ | thecrownhastings.co.uk

Some of the best places to drink in Hastings are handily some of the best places to eat, too. The Crown is a local and visitor favourite in the backstreets of the Old Town, where work from local artists, some as young as nine, is displayed and available to buy (look out for pressed flowers in frames from Lida Floral). Ask the team for their local wine recommendations and snack on chunky chips with brown sauce – just watch out for seagulls.

The Jenny Lind

£ | jennylindhastings.co.uk

Pile into the bar or sip your pint of cask ale on the pavement, enjoying one of the many popular nights at the Jenny Lind in Hastings Old Town. The weekly Shanty Sessions (usually every Thursday) are a joyful, slightly rowdy evening out. Every Sunday evening there's a Bring your own vinyl night. You're likely to hear live music virtually every night of the week.

The Stag Inn

£ | staghastings.co.uk

Further up All Saints Street is this supposedly haunted (by a Dutch sea captain and "girl in white") 16th-century pub, with 18th-century smugglers' passages in its cellar. The pub's live folk music on Tuesdays has been running for 40 years and is still hugely popular with locals. Pair it with the FILO ( First In Last Out ) down the road, which has its own microbrewery, or Noah's Goat wine bar and "cheese cave" on George Street.

Brewing Brothers at the Courtyard

£ | brewingbrothers.org

There are three Brewing Brothers sites, set up by two local beer-loving siblings. The one you're most likely to stroll past is in the Courtyard, which in the 1870s was the site of the town's subterranean swimming pool, the White Rock Baths. Today, it neighbours the Source Park skate park and Winifred's, an excellent small-plate – and small-footprint – restaurant celebrating British produce. Sip a pint of the "OG" and move next door to Winifred's when you're peckish.

Graze on Grand

££ | grazeongrand.com

You may think that Hastings and St Leonards are summertime spots, but Graze on Grand, a gallery, wine bar and café, is a place to cosy up on a gloomy day with a sharing plate of cheese and a glass of wine or sherry. Even its mains are hearty (think veggie curries and seafood stews). Grab a seat by the window, and listen to the wild waves and lashing rain.

The Jolly Fisherman

£ | jollyfishermanhastings.com

This tiny pub was first established in 1851 to quench the thirst of local fishermen after a night on the water. It closed in 1959 but was revived in 2016, with a carefully curated selection of cask ales, craft beers and ciders available, as well as snacks on the side.

Collected Fictions

££ | collectedfictions.co.uk

This small roadside spot is dedicated to natural wines and craft beer, with the option to buy thirds, halves, two thirds, pints and litres. Grab a seat outside on a sunny day, or hunker down on a candle-lit window seat on others. It doubles as a gallery – work from local seaside-inspired artists, including Sian Beck , is on display here.

Selkie Seafood Bar

££ | oysterboyevents.com

Order at the hatch in Bottle Alley and take your drink to one of the candy-coloured bistro tables that sink into the shingles just metres from the water. You'll find locals stopping for lunchtime and early evening glasses of Viognier, ordering the Essex oysters and seafood charcuterie (smoked salmon, mackerel, prawns smoked down the road in Rock-a-Nore, plus pickles and sourdough) when hunger bites. It's open 365 days of the year, even Christmas Day.

Where to stay

Old Rectory

From £160 a night, including breakfast

For a boutique B&B that feels like staying in a friend's plush home, try the Old Rectory in Hastings Old Town. Lionel Copley, the fashion designer and owner, knows all the best gardens and fayres, and their café serves some of the best cake in town.

The Seadog

From £160 a night, room-only

The Seadog pub, right by Hastings station, is a great spot for drinks, live music and quizzes, but also has lovely and inexpensive dog-friendly rooms above, with fringed lamps and wrought-iron beds. Long-term residencies from local chefs mean there's always an excellent snack and bigger-meal menu, and the exceptional Sunday roast is great value.

The Well

From £800 a night, sleeping 12, including a hosted or breakfast drop-off

For larger groups, all eyes are on the Well , a lovingly restored, impeccably decorated grade II-listed Regency home that's opening this autumn on St Leonards seafront. A sauna and holistic facials from Spell will add an extra element of relaxation.

Architects Holiday

From £310 a night, with Continental breakfast

Out of town, on the edge of Battle is Architects Holiday at Great Park Farm, home to four cabins set in leafy woodland in an area of outstanding natural beauty. The Bather's Cabin, with its sauna, cold plunge and hot tub, is the perfect place to extend your stay.

Five festivals worth planning a trip around

Jack in the Green

See Hastings at its most charming and quirky during May's four-day Jack in the Green festival, when virtually every resident digs out their green clothes and flower crowns and gets involved in a joyful weekend out. Watch the procession of hundreds of drummers, dancers and a giant figure of the leaf-covered Jack, before the "slaying" of the Jack on the West Hill. Fans of fancy dress and pub-hopping may also like the Pirate Festival in mid-July, with a Great Buccaneers Procession and sea shanties. hastingstraditionaljackinthegreen.co.uk

Hastings Comedy Festival

See some of the most celebrated stars in British comedy (and some equally impressive emerging acts) over the first week of June, when Hastings Comedy Festival is held. Acts perform at some of the town's best eating and drinking venues, plus the Observer Building, a former print factory and then derelict building, which is now a multi-functional space with a great rooftop bar. Tickets are cheap, and you can see several acts in one night. hastingscomedyfestival.com

Hastings Storytelling Festival

"Famously diverse, progressive, immersive and inclusive storytelling for all ages" is how this festival describes itself, which is spot on. The much-loved week-long event in October (17-25) includes readings from writers, craft sessions and this year's Axel Scheffler, the patron, illustrator of Julia Donaldson's The Gruffalo , will return for a reading of the new Gruffalo Granny , with a talk, live illustration and book signing. hastingsstoryfest.org.uk

Fat Tuesday Music Festival

The UK's largest mid-winter Mardi Gras carnival is a free, five-day celebration of music, when more than 300 gigs are played across Hastings' and St Leonards' best venues – and you don't need to pay a penny. The last night sees Le Grand Mardi Gras ball at the White Rock theatre (a ticketed event). Children can get involved with the daytime Umbrella and brass-band parade. hastingsfattuesday.co.uk

Hastings Bonfire Night

Once you've experienced a Hastings bonfire night, all others will feel lacklustre in comparison. Expect a thrilling torchlight parade through the old and new town streets, beach bonfire, effigy and firework display. Dates vary (this year will be Saturday October 17). If you can't make it, other Sussex towns including Battle, Rye and Lewes put on similarly good displays. hbbs.info

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