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Knoxville News Sentinel

The Café by LeeEllen serves comforting food in a charming setting | Grub Scout

The Grub Scout
Updated
4 min read

The Café by LeeEllen is in the heart of downtown Loudon. I learned about it from a friend who enjoyed a meal there last year and posted about it on Facebook. The Grub Spouse and I ventured to the cafe over the summer but arrived to find that it was closed because the owner was on vacation. Last week, we tried again. We confirmed the eatery's open status and showed up at what would be considered more of a brunchy hour.

The interior is spacious. The wide-open dining area — a space that started out as a car-dealership showroom in the 1950s — has tables to accommodate parties of all sizes. The vibe is part quaint bistro, part tea room. An abundance of windows allows in lots of light, although we avoided the tables that were being hit hardest by the sun.

We were greeted by a woman who stated that she was not an official employee, because the owner was in the process of trying to hire someone. She was simply a friend who was helping out LeeEllen while the café was short-staffed. The woman instructed us where to procure our beverage of choice and told us that once we were ready to order, we should write it down and take it to the kitchen window. Menus were already on the table.

The Café by LeeEllen in Loudon County serves comforting breakfast and lunch fare in a charming downtown setting.
The Café by LeeEllen in Loudon County serves comforting breakfast and lunch fare in a charming downtown setting.

Breakfast is served from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Items include traditional plates with eggs and sausage/bacon, a breakfast burrito, omelets, biscuits and gravy and more. For lunch, options include four salads (including spinach and Greek), three wraps and a trio of panini. Sandwich fans will find a Philly cheesesteak, a club and a couple of croissants, to mention a few of the choices.

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Those ordering lunch or dinner may also do the Pick 2 option, choosing any two items from among sandwiches/wraps, salads and soups for $11.79. (The soups available that day were bean and ham, tomato bisque and vegetable.) In addition to the regular menu items, we spotted a couple of specials on the whiteboard: lasagna and baked spaghetti.

The Spouse claimed breakfast and ordered the French toast ($13.69) — four slices of multigrain bread that are toasted (duh), topped with powdered sugar and served with a choice of sausage or bacon. The Spouse went with the latter.

I ordered from the lunch part of the menu, although my selection, the Quiche Lorraine ($11.79), is on the breakfast menu as well. It's made with bacon, Swiss cheese and spinach. It comes with a side, and when I learned that my first choice, potato salad, had been 86-ed, I went with pasta salad instead of broccoli slaw, fruit or a side salad.

The handful of customers dining in when we arrived were gone by the time our food showed up, leaving me and The Spouse as the lone patrons. LeeEllen's friend delivered our meals to the table when they were ready and then left for the day. The French toast was well made, and the bacon cooked to the crispy side of perfect. This meal was substantial, and for that reason, The Spouse was unable to complete it.

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I enjoyed the flavor of the quiche, but it could have been served a little hotter to suit my liking. My palate also found the pasta salad to be a little heavy on the vinaigrette, but I thought the recipe was interesting; in addition to the corkscrew pasta itself, the mix featured chopped olives, broccoli, peppers, onion, tomato and cheese.

We passed on dessert. The default menu option is ice cream, but that day's specials included strawberry cobbler, raspberry-and-white-chocolate cake, and New York-style cheesecake topped with a strawberry compote.

After our meal, we bussed our own table, although that wasn't required; we were just trying to help out since the owner's friend had departed. (Note that because of the self-service component, I did not award a service score this week.) However, the woman who prepared our meal, whom we presumed to be LeeEllen, came out and chatted us up. She was very gracious and friendly.

I don't get to Loudon often, but when I do, I'm always reminded of what a cool and charming little town it is. Next time you're there or passing through, consider stopping in and having lunch at The Café by LeeEllen. Hopefully, she'll have hired a new employee by then. Or if you happen to be looking for a job, maybe you could ask for an application.

The Café by LeeEllen

Food: 3.75

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Service: NA

Atmosphere: 3.75

Overall: 3.75

Address: 307 Grove St., Loudon

Phone: 865-824-9888

No alcohol service

Hours: 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday through Friday; 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturdays; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. Call before going to ensure the restaurant is open.

This Loudon County eatery serves comforting breakfast and lunch fare in a charming downtown setting.

This article originally appeared on Knoxville News Sentinel: Restaurant review: The Café by LeeEllen offers comfort and charm

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