A taste of the new Dory: Memphis restaurant transforms simple into exciting | Review
"This is the restaurant we always wanted," Amanda Krog said as she looked over a bustling dining room at Dory restaurant on Aug. 4.
Starting Aug. 1, the menu concept the award-winning East Memphis restaurant Amanda runs with her husband, chef David Krog, changed from a tasting menu-only restaurant to a full-service dining concept .
Guests are now able to order a la carte, choosing what they want and how many courses, versus the multi-course tasting menu the restaurant opened with in 2021.
What to expect at Dory
"Think of it as Dory 1.0," Amanda said. "We are getting back to the restaurant we originally intended to open."
When the change was announced in June, David said to expect the same level of quality and creativity that has gained the restaurant accolades since it opened in early 2021.
"We will still be getting ingredients from the same local farms, using what is available in season," said David, adding the restaurant will continue its commitment to being a "zero waste" kitchen.
The only difference will be that instead of a four- or six-course tasting menu of small portions, guests will enjoy a traditional restaurant dining experience where they can order entrée-size portions.
My dinner at Dory
At my meal on the first weekend of the new menu, I was excited to see that the creativity and attention to detail that had gained the Krogs national attention for their tasting menu concept had seamlessly transferred to the new service model.
We started with a selection of appetizers that were as delicious as they were artfully plated.
Pan-seared Black Oyster Mushrooms are a surprising showstopper served over a small bowlful of delicate masa "grits" flavored with day cheese, fried shallots and fermented onion powder.
A bowl full of mussels was perfectly cooked. Be sure to order a plate of the restaurant's house-made yeast rolls to soak up the delicious butter sauce flavored with shallots, green garlic and bacon.
Even carrots wowed our table. David roasts farm-fresh baby carrots and garnishes them with chopped hazelnuts and kale ash. It's a perfect example of how David takes a simple ingredient and elevates it into an exciting dish.
As you read this you may ask, what are fermented onion powder and kale ash? These are two flavorful garnishes that are a perfect example of the Krogs' commitment to a zero-waste kitchen. David uses every part of an ingredient — including items like kale stems and onion skins — and transforms them into flavor-packed accents in a dish.
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Our entrées were perfectly sized, and dishes that we will order again. The Red Fish dish is a perfectly cooked piece of red fish served in a delicate saffron-infused brodo (which means broth) with tender field peas. The Duck dish is a medium-rare duck breast served with a dauphinoise (a classic French side dish similar to potatoes au gratin) made with the root vegetable kohlrabi.
Save room for dessert. David has transformed corn — yes, I said corn — into a tasty sweet treat. The Sweet Corn Mousse is creamy and light with a balanced hint of corn and sweetness. Inside the mousse is a layer of caramel sauce also made from corn. A tuile cookie made with corn masa adds a finishing touch.
On Amanda's recommendation, we ordered a non-alcoholic cocktail to accompany our dessert. The Medieval Times is a surprising after-dinner libation made with Dr. Beans coffee, orange, lamb fat, charred corn husk and cream. I would have never thought I would recommend a drink made with lamb fat and corn husk, but this zero-waste use of ingredients gives the drink a deliciously decadent creaminess (from the fat) and sweetness (from the corn).
Not only had the food not missed a beat, neither had the service. The servers were knowledgeable about the menu, being able to explain about each unique ingredient and cooking preparation. The attentive, yet friendly, service gave the dining room a relaxed and comfortable vibe that nicely complemented David's fare.
A neighborhood restaurant
The restaurant will remain a fine dining concept, but the Krogs' goal is for Dory to become more than just a special occasion destination.
"We chose Brookhaven Circle because of the neighborhood," Amanda said. "We always wanted to be a neighborhood restaurant, and this change will help us be that."
The Krogs do not plan to totally stop the tasting-menu experiences that have helped garner them local and national attention. David will still offer a tasting menu at the chef's counter by the restaurant's open kitchen.
The restaurant also will keep its bar menu (with popular items like Salted Cod Brandade and Flank Steak Sliders) for those wanting to stop in for a drink and a quick bite.
Reservations are recommended, but not required.
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Jennifer Chandler is the Food & Dining reporter at The Commercial Appeal. She can be reached at jennifer.chandler@commercialappeal.com and you can follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @cookwjennifer.
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Dory
Where:716 W. Brookhaven Circle
Hours:Dinner only, opens at 4 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday
Online: dorymemphis.com
Phone:(901) 310-4290
Reservations: resy.com
This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: Dory in East Memphis: A review of the restaurant's new dining concept
