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Food & Wine

Should You Ever Order the House Wine? Look for Signs That It’s Worth the Risk

From menu clues to red flags and the one question to ask your server, wine pros share top tips on how to tell whether the house wine is a hidden gem or a glass to avoid.

Kelly Magyarics
4 min read
Credit: vlarub / Getty Images
Credit: vlarub / Getty Images

We’ve all been there. Maybe you’re looking for something to sip with dinner that’s not going to break the bank, or you just don’t feel like combing through the wine list to find the perfect pour. Then you come across an item that’s as elusive as it is confusing: house wine.

It could end up being a delightfully unexpected surprise, or it could be undrinkable. How do you know? Is house wine like the proverbial box of chocolates, where you never know what you’re going to get?

“House wines can provide great value when thoughtfully selected and treated with the same care as the rest of the beverage program,” says Ryne Hazzard, wine director and assistant general manager at Casa Teresa in Washington, D.C. “Unfortunately, it’s often a neglected offering and a restaurant’s release valve for poor-quality, slow-moving or spoiled stock.”

What clues should you look for to see if the house wine is worth ordering?

If you’re dining at a new (or new-to-you) restaurant, you might not be able to decode the quality of its beverage program. But there are ways to determine whether you should order the house wine or skip it.

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Clarity is key, says Joe Beziek, sommelier at Ellerman House in Cape Town, South Africa. If it mentions a name, place and story, it’s a pretty safe bet. However, he says, “if it just says, ‘house red’ or ‘house white,’ with no details, it’s usually been chosen by spreadsheet rather than palate.”

Braithe Gill, corporate beverage director for Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group in New Orleans, looks to a wine’s region to decide drinkability.

“Wines from Italy and France are usually a safe bet,” says Gill. “All wines from the European Union have to include a quality designation, so even the lowest-level wines from these countries are required to meet at least a minimum standard.”

Bottles from wine regions with high price-to-quality ratios, like Portugal, South Africa, and Austria, are also worth a chance.

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Related: How to Find the Best Wines From South Africa

What are the biggest red flags that a house wine is a generic, low-quality pour?

Aside from a lack of detail on the menu, Hazzard says a house wine that’s priced alarmingly low should be considered with caution. Glasses or bottles offered at rock-bottom prices usually indicate bottles that aren’t selling, or worse, wine that’s spoiled. Stay away if the house wine isn’t stored or treated in the same way as other offerings, like open bottles behind the bar when everything else is in a wine refrigerator.

If staff can’t provide at least a region and year, choose something else. And, Hazzard says, “with very few exceptions, never order house wine at big chain restaurants,” as they’re often high-volume pours that the restaurant is trying to offload quickly.

"“If it feels like an afterthought, it may be worth exploring other options.”"

Joe Beziek, sommelier at Ellerman House in Cape Town, South Africa

What can guests ask staff to quickly gauge the quality of house wine?

Rather than try to decipher the menu or figure out the philosophy behind the wine program, Beziek says that you can ask one simple question: “What is your house wine, and why was it chosen?”

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This is often enough, he says, since “a confident, enthusiastic, and informed response generally indicates a considered selection.”

Much the same way you’d ask your server if a dish you’re eyeing on the menu is worth ordering, Gill will ask staff if the house wine is popular, or if there’s something else they’d recommend.

Related: I Was a Restaurant Sommelier for Years — Do These 4 Things to Get a Great Bottle

When might house wine be the best option?

If your plans take you somewhere casual, say pizza or burgers, Gill believes these situations best lend themselves to house wine.

“It leaves the guesswork out of choosing wine and may add to the comfort and ease of an informal dining experience,” she says.

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Hazzard adds that it can also be a smart choice at small, family-run restaurants and bars, whose smaller budgets and limited storage space can translate to thoughtful, intentional choices.

Bottom line: sip or skip?

If the house wine contains useful details on the menu beyond price, or the staff can articulate why it’s offered in the first place, ask for it. But, as Beziek says, the house wine can set the tone for the guest’s entire experience: “If it feels like an afterthought, it may be worth exploring other options.”

Read the original article on Food & Wine

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