Positano vs. Capri: How to Choose Between Italy’s Most Iconic Coastal Escapes

Boat rides to hidden coves, sunbathing below a colorful umbrella at a glamorous beach club, sipping Aperol spritzes at sunset, twirling spaghetti with clams as you gaze out at the Mediterranean—these are just a few of the dreamy things you can do on the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri, which is less than an hour away by boat. And though the coast gets its name from the city of Amalfi—once the seat of a powerful maritime republic—no town symbolizes this fabled stretch of coast more acutely than Positano. When it comes to glitz, glamour, and views, it's hard to beat Positano and Capri.

The first time I laid eyes on Positano , with its majolica-tiled church dome and pastel buildings clinging to the cliffs that rise from a tranquil bay, I laughed out loud at how absurdly beautiful it seemed. When I finally visited Capri , it too wowed me—and I'm far from the island's only fan. It has been a haven for rich and famous visitors since the days of the Roman Empire, when Tiberius built a pleasure palace and ditched Rome for the island. So if you're trying to plan a trip to the area, where should you base yourself, and how should you spend your time? I consulted local expert Holly Star, who, together with her husband Gianluca D'Esposito, runs Michel'angelo cooking school at the Giardino di Capri , which offers culinary classes and other food experiences on the island.

Here's what you should consider when choosing between Positano and Capri.

Atmosphere

Positano and Capri are about 15 nautical miles apart, so in some ways they feel quite similar. Both are characterized by dramatic mountains that rise up out of the sea. The architecture is similar, and so are the jasmine and bougainvillea trees. With its centuries-long history as a destination for the elite, Capri feels a bit more upscale and glamorous, with designer boutiques and the people who shop at them. Positano still feels a bit more laid-back. During the high season, both tend to get extremely crowded.

"Yes, there's a crazy amount of day-trippers, but there's always a place to go on the island where you can feel like the island is yours," says Star, who notes that Capri is larger than Positano and actually comprises two towns: Capri (the main town has the same name as the island) and Anacapri, which tends to be less crowded. "It's just a matter of knowing where to go, timing your itinerary, and having an adventurous spirit."

Cost

Everything is relative, but prices across the Amalfi Coast and on Capri—for everything from food and drinks to accommodations and taxis—are high compared to many other Italian destinations. On one of my trips to the island, I was charged €3 for a cappuccino at the counter of a café on the Piazzetta (Capri's main square), while in other parts of Italy that same cappuccino would cost €1-1.50. And on my most recent trip to Positano, I paid €10 for a sorbetto al limone eaten at the counter of a café a few blocks from the beach. In other words, neither destination is a bargain. That said, it's not impossible to stick to a budget.

"It's a misconception that Capri is this luxury, very expensive Island," says Star. "We do have to rely on a lot of things from the mainland, which does come at an extra cost. However, that doesn't mean that there aren't places that are affordable. There are luxury hotels, there are affordable hotels, and there's everything in between."

Things to Do

Whether you plan to stay in Positano or Capri, you should definitely spend some time on (and in) the water. A boat ride is one of the best things to do, as it gives you a chance to take in the landscape, explore hidden coves, and swim in the sea. During a boat ride organized by Imago Artis Travel , my husband and I admired Capri's lighthouse, Villa Malaparte, and passed by the Blue Grotto before diving into the sea by a less-crowded grotto.

Both Positano and Capri have historic sites worth visiting as well. In Positano, a guided tour of the Museo Archeologico Romano , which opened in 2018, is a must. The visit brings you to an incredibly well-preserved Roman villa with unbelievably vibrant frescoes hidden under the main church of Santa Maria Assunta. In Capri, you can visit the tranquil Gardens of Augustus , the ruins of Villa Jovis built by Tiberius, and the more recent Villa San Michele , once the home of Swedish doctor Axel Munthe, which has beautiful gardens with breathtaking views.

Active travelers who want to spend time immersed in nature will find great hiking trails, too. Positano is the endpoint for the Path of the Gods, a nearly five-mile hiking path high up in the mountains from Agerola to Positano, which is known for its panoramic vistas. In Capri, you can hike from Punta Tragara, which has fantastic views of the Faraglioni, a set of sea stacks jutting up out of the water, down to the main port of Marina Grande, or follow the winding Via Krupp from the Gardens of Augustus down to Marina Piccola, among other trails.

Beaches

Both Positano and Capri have beach clubs where you can rent lounge chairs and umbrellas for the day, as well as some stretches of free beach where you can lay your towel on the sand without paying a fee. Some of the more glamorous beach clubs are associated with hotels, so while their restaurants are open to the public, their lounge chairs and umbrellas are exclusively for hotel guests. Others, like famed Capri club La Fontelina , tend to book up before the season even starts.

Just keep in mind that if you dream of relaxing on a sandy beach, then Capri isn't right for you. "A very important thing to note: there are pebble beaches, but then up in Anacapri and also in Marina Piccola under the Faraglioni, there are rock platforms, so you're diving directly into the sea," says Star. In Positano, there are also pebbly beaches at Spiaggia Grande (the main beach) and Fornillo Beach, which locals prefer. If you plan to scout out some space on the free beaches in either destination, be sure to get there early.

Hotels

When it comes to hotels in this part of Italy, each property is more fabulous than the last. One of the most legendary properties not just on the Amalfi Coast but in the entire country is Le Sirenuse in Positano. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, this family-run hotel mixes hand-painted tiles and family heirlooms with contemporary art. Here you can savor breakfast, where the ample buffet is set up seemingly directly above the dome of Santa Maria Assunta, swim in the pool, which features an art installation by Swiss artist Nicolas Party, and sip spritzes at the glamorous Franco's Bar.

And there are a handful of other fabulous hotels in Positano, including Il San Pietro di Positano , Villa Treville , Hotel Villa Franca , and Hotel Poseidon .

In Capri, meanwhile, you're spoiled for choice. One of the buzziest properties is Hotel La Palma , a member of the prestigious Oetker Collection. There are old-school stalwarts like the Quisisana , intimate boutique hotels like Capri Tiberio Palace and J.K. Place Capri , and everything in between. Star's favorite luxury five-star hotel on the island is the Caesar Augustus . "It's sort of the place where you're in between the sky and the sea. The views are just so spectacular," she says. "Sometimes when I've been there, it's been like a dream, like when I'm looking at that view and I just can't believe how fortunate I am to be here."

Getting There and Getting Around

Whether you plan to stay in Positano or Capri, you'll most likely transit through Naples . International flights arrive at the Naples Capodichino Airport or the smaller Salerno Costa d'Amalfi and Cilento Airport, which are the closest airports to the Amalfi Coast and Capri. Alternatively, you could fly to Rome and take the train to Naples.

From Naples, you have a few options for getting to Positano. You could take a private boat or ferry, which could take an hour or two (you might have to connect with a different ferry in Amalfi). Alternatively, you can book a car transfer (best arranged through your hotel) or taxi. The least expensive but most onerous way to get there is to take a combination of trains and buses.

To get to Capri, you can catch a boat from Naples. Public ferries depart from Calata Porta di Massa and take between one hour and one hour, 20 minutes, while the faster hydrofoil service departs from the nearby Molo Beverello pier and takes under an hour.

Once you arrive, both Positano and Capri are fairly walkable, with many pedestrian-only streets. Be aware, however, that both destinations—but especially Positano—may be challenging for people with limited mobility, as there are lots of stairs and steep hills to climb. There are taxis and buses available to transport passengers around the area. In the high season, some ferries will bring you directly from Positano to Capri.

Itinerary Ideas

"One of the things that I think is such a big misconception is that Capri is a day trip," says Star. "There's just too many things to see here. And the thing is, it's an island. So when you travel to an island, you want to understand island time, island rhythm, and that certainly isn't rushing around and seeing everything in a very short time frame." Star recommends staying at least three or four nights on the island.

She doesn't consider Positano a day-tripping destination either, noting, "They both deserve time to be able to appreciate their beauty."

Having visited both destinations multiple times, I have to agree. Both Positano and Capri are worth spending a few days in.

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