平野弥･ブルゴーニュワイン会＝Ｈ.リニエ vs ＬＡ.リニエ、ルフレーブの変化＝

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2011.10.02

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カテゴリ：ワイン会

久々の平野弥のワインです。今回のワイン会のテーマは、平野さんの感想でドメーヌ･ルフレーブのワインが２００８からスタイルが変わったのではないか(それも平野さんの望まない方向に)、また、ユベール･リニエとリュシー･エ･オーギュスト･リニエのワインは元は同じであったが、今ではかなりスタイルが違うのではないか、ということで両者の比較テイスティングです。　他は平野さんお薦めのワイン達です。

◆平野さんのルフレーブ･テイスティング感想ブログはこちら⇒ 変化するドメーヌ・ルフレーヴ：2008年と2007年の比較 - Ma Parole de vin-ワインは語る-

【テーマワインとその他のワイン(一部)】

ワイン会のワインリストと簡単なコメントは下記のとおりです。

【ワインリスト】

No	銘　柄　名	Vintage	造り手	コメント
1	Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Rose de Vigne	NV	Domaine Chevrot	シャンパーニュのブリオッシュ系の香りはないが、チャーミングなフランボワーズ系の香り。シッカリした造りながらスルスル飲める感じ。
2	・・・・	2009	Cordier Pere et Fils	家飲み(感想はこちら⇒ 2011.4.30の日記 )も含め今回で４回目。相変わらずレベルの高いＡＣブルで美味しい！
3	Pouilly Fuisse Fine Josephine	2006	Cordier Pere et Fils	色も濃く貴腐の入ったようなハチミツ香。ビオディナミの教祖ニコラ･ジョリーのクール･ド･セランを思い起こさせます。味も香りそのままで甘く膨らみがあります。これでもドライで甘口タイプが別にあるようです。(デザートの時に予定外で特別に出てきました)
4	Pouilly Fuisse Les Brules	2006	Chateau Fuisse	未だ未だフレッシュで品の良い果実香。味も高級シャルドネのニュアンスがあり好印象。
5	Puligny Montrachet Clavoillons	2007	Domaine Leflaive	ピュリニーらしい品の良い硬質感を感じさせる香り。私のイメージするルフレーヴからすると控え目の香りでソゼを連想させます。時間が経つと芳ばしい新樽と思われるロースト香も出てきます。味はクリーンな酸味が利いていて2007にしてはふくよかで余韻も長いです。
6	Puligny Montrachet Clavoillons	2008	Domaine Leflaive	香りはこちらの方がボリューム感がありインパクト強いです。ピュリニーと言うよりカリフォルニアのシャルドネに良く感じられる香りです。味も果実味豊かそうですが、2007より余韻が短くミネラル分が少ないような感じです。時間と共に変化してくるような味わい深さや面白さに欠ける感じです。
7	Marsannay Trois Terres VV	2006	Jean Fournier	平野さんお薦めのジャン・フルニエ。確かにマルサネとは思えない(と言っても､あまり飲んでないのですが)ふくよかな味わい。香りは最初還元臭や漬物らしき香りがありましたが、直ぐに抜けて乳酸菌飲料系の香りに。まぁ、美味しいのですが、これが５～６千円するとなるとチョット考えます。(アルコール13.5%)
8	Givry 1er Cru Clos Salomon	2009	Domaine du Clos Salomon	ドメーヌ名を畑名に出来るのは由緒あるワイナリのみらしく平野弥の掘り出し物。2009の特徴か飴玉のような香り。時間が経つとルソーのようなアセロラ香が出てくる。味は綺麗な酸味が特長で、酸味命のブルゴーニュ好きには良いかも。アルコール13.9%と高め。熟成させると面白いような気がし興味あります。
9	Morey Saint Denis	2008	Hubert Lignier	ブルゴーニュ好きのオタクが(誰とは言いませんが...)評価しているので本日一番期待してたワイン。香りはブルゴーニュらしさはありますが弱めな果実香(先週自宅で飲んだＣ.Ｍ. Bussieres 2007のが香りが良かった気が...)。味は酸味が強く未だ飲むには大分早い気がし旨味も足りない気がします。でもブルゴーニュ好きはこれを美味しいと思うのかも。
10	Morey Saint Denis 1er Cuvee Romain Lignier	2004	Lucie & Auguste Lignier	これのクロドラロッシュやモレサンドニをかなり前に飲んでいますが、酸味とタンニンが綺麗に融合していて美味しいです。本日一番の味かと。香りはこちらも弱めながら、土の香りとか出し汁系の香りがあります。味も出し汁系ですが。

｢2008から醸造長が代わりスタイルが変わったと思われるが、評論家やジャーナリストは何も言わない。多分バトナージュ回数を増やして抽出を強めているのではないか？カリフォルニア等の新世界系のワインに変わってきている。残念に思う。｣　私の感想では、抽出を強めている割には旨味が少なくバランスが悪くなっている気がします。たまたま2008は醸造長が代わって失敗しているのか、今後を見守りたいと思います。

Ｌ&Ａ.リニエは比較のヴィンテージが違いすぎて分かりませんが、平野さん曰く、｢2004 同士で比較してもＬ&Ａ.リニの方が濃く、壜詰めの時に何か足しているのではないか？こちらの方が明らかにモダンなスタイル。2006以降、オーナーのケレンが何かに怒ったようで出荷してくれなくなって、近いヴィンテージを出せなかった｣と。　復活したユベール･リニエは前にも増してクラシックなスタイルになっているとのことですが、2007も飲んだ感想では、今のところ私のあまり好きなワインではない気がします。

注）上の何か足しているの何かとはタンニンの粉(パウダー)ではないかと平野さんは言っています。このタンニン･パウダーて知りませんでした。オークチップと共に醸造テクニックの１つで、１０年ぐらい前にボルドーで出現し、今ではブルゴーニュを含め色んな所で使われているようで、日本でも市販されているらしいです。

【オードブルとメイン料理】

オードブル（右から、秋刀魚の燻製、鰯のオイルサーディン、鶏唐揚げマリネ）

鯛のポワレ(バター未使用)･焼き茗荷添え

黒豚のロティ

秋刀魚の燻製の酢漬けがなかなか面白い味わいで美味でした。
鯛のポワレにはルフレーヴの2007が良く合います。また、黒豚のロティに添えられているワサビは、ＬＡ.リニエのタンニンが溶け込んだ味わいと合う感じがします。

平野さんが今年の６月にブルゴーニュで試飲した感想によれば、今のところ賛否両論の２００９より２０１０の方がバランスよくエレガントでお薦めと言っています。まぁ、１９８９年と１９９０年の関係みたいでしょうか？ＡＣブル等、早いものはもう直ぐ出てくるでしょうから楽しみです。
Ｓ．ジョブズが生きていたら、最後の日に飲みたいワインは何と言ったのか気になるところです。　冥福を祈ります。

お気に入りの記事を「いいね！」で応援しよう

最終更新日 2011.10.07 06:46:42
コメント(11) | コメントを書く

[ワイン会] カテゴリの最新記事

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