Most people get Ireland all wrong. Here's what to actually see (and skip) on your first visit.

I've been all over the world, and there's nowhere I pine for quite like Ireland. As soon as I stepped foot there for the first time in 2019, I realized the rumors are true: Ireland hums with a special magic and beauty that seeps up through the boggy hillsides and glows among the gorse and heather.

But Ireland is also home to a lot of overblown tourism that isn't worth the hype, and many hopeful travelers end up wandering through the Guinness factory when they'd be better off sipping a pint at the pub up the street — or better yet, leaving the city altogether and heading for the hills, beaches, castles, loughs and sacred wells.

Of course, you can't experience all of Ireland on a single trip. It's better to focus on one section of the island, skip what isn't worth it and save the rest for next time. If I had one or two weeks to do my first trip over, this would be my route:

• Start in Dublin, then head south toward Wicklow Mountains National Park

• Cut west toward Cork, stopping in County Tipperary along the way

• Drive to Killarney National Park, then west along the Wild Atlantic Way

• Head northwest to the Dingle Peninsula, then continue north to County Clare

• Keep going up the coast toward Galway and cap off the trip at Connemara National Park

• Fly out of Shannon Airport, just west of Limerick, or drive four hours back east to Dublin Airport

The must-sees below match up with this itinerary, so you can easily visit them all without having to reroute. I highly recommend renting a car — I've traveled all over Ireland by bus, and while it's possible, it's a bit of a slog.

Skip the Dublin tourist traps — do this instead

I lived in Ireland's capital for a few months in 2021, and I'm not going to sugarcoat it: I think most of Dublin is massively overrated. The Guinness Storehouse is underwhelming. Temple Bar is a 24/7 circus (and, in my opinion, not a fun one), and most of the city feels like any other large, globalized hub. That said, there are some worthwhile things to see and do while you're there.

First, skip the Guinness and Jameson stuff. If you're after a taste of Ireland's finest, head to Teeling Distillery , Pearse Lyons Distillery or Rascals Brewing instead. You can also skip the downtown frenzy in Temple Bar, the Molly Malone statue and the Book of Kells. Instead, spend the afternoon wandering through St. Stephen's Green or Phoenix Park, one of Europe's largest urban parks. St. Stephen's Green is just blocks from Trinity College Dublin, the National Gallery of Ireland , the National Concert Hall and the Irish Traditional Music Archive , which are all worth a visit.

Speaking of which, make time to hear some music while in Dublin. The Cobblestone Pub is one of Ireland's most legendary session pubs, where you can catch authentic Irish traditional music seven days a week. McNeill's Public House on Capel Street is also worth a stop for a session and a pint.

Finally, I highly recommend the National Botanic Gardens of Ireland — truly one of the most impressive botanical gardens I've ever visited — followed by a spice bag from HongKee . (Deep-fried chips plus Chinese takeaway. Trust me, you want it.) For a more traditional meal, head to the underrated Coachman's Inn near the airport, a spot locals call one of the best carveries in Dublin.

Stroll (and swim) along the Howth Cliff Walk

Go for:Stunning coastal views and swimming spots just 30 minutes from downtown Dublin

When you're ready to venture out of the city, head 30 minutes northeast to Howth, a tiny peninsula surrounded by a dreamy coastal trail. The Howth Cliff Walk is an absolute treat and the perfect introduction to the beauty of the Irish Sea. The five-mile loop takes you along the northern edge of Dublin Bay, past lighthouses, stone fort buildings and trails down to coves and beaches below. In summer, you'll walk through blooming purple heather and can stop for soft serve in the village.

I did the Howth Cliff Walk for my 31st birthday, and dipping into the Irish Sea midway through is a memory I often come back to. The views are incredible, especially when the sun's out, and it feels like you're a world away from the big-city vibes of Dublin.

Step back in time at Glendalough in Wicklow

Go for:Historic monuments and deeply serene natural beauty, just an hour from the city

Wicklow Mountains National Park is about an hour south of Dublin, and it's my favorite place to go whenever I'm in the area. It's Ireland's largest national park and home to the Glendalough monastic site , multiple stunning waterfalls and a large lake surrounded by forests and hiking trails. When I went there with my partner a few years ago, we stayed at the quaint Glendalough Hotel , right next to the trailheads.

The monastic site dates to the sixth century, and most of the remaining structures were built between 900 and 1,200 years ago. Being there feels like stepping back in time. If you get to explore Wicklow beyond the park, check out Firehouse Bakery for some of the best bread and pastries in Ireland, or grab lunch and hit the beach in nearby Bray.

Wander the ancient grounds at the Rock of Cashel

Go for:What's widely considered the most impressive historic monument in Ireland

After you leave County Wicklow, head west on the M8 toward County Tipperary and the Rock of Cashel . This hilltop castle fort is nearly 1,000 years old, but the site itself was used as the seat of power for Munster kings as early as the fourth century. The structures are stunningly preserved, despite their exposed location, which forces closures during storms. The Rock of Cashel is sometimes called "the high king of Irish monuments."

The Brú Ború Cultural Centre is just down the hill from the fort, where you can learn more about the ruins, take a traditional music class or sean nós (old-style) dance class, and hear live music multiple times a week throughout the summer. The center has a theater, visitor center, restaurant and gift shop, and the classes and workshops are especially worthwhile for anyone seeking a genuine Irish cultural experience.

Grab a bite and a pint in colorful Kinsale

Go for:Charming, artsy village vibes and some of the best restaurants in Ireland

There's more than one worthwhile stop in County Cork, so don't take this as a knock against the area's other adorable villages or charming castles. Cobh, Clonakilty and Cork city are all worth a visit, but the colorful streets of Kinsale deserve a special mention.

Just 90 minutes southwest of the Rock of Cashel by car, seaside Kinsale is known for its award-winning restaurants (like Rare at the Blue Haven Hotel ), excellent pubs (try the Bulman or the Greyhound) and quirky secondhand stores and bookshops. Most of all, Kinsale is one of the most colorful towns in Ireland, with its lime green, hot pink, turquoise and lemon-yellow houses and shopfronts.

It's hard to talk about a Cork trip without mentioning the Blarney Stone — but that doesn't mean you need to go, much less kiss the rock. This long-running tourist tradition has a major hold on international visitors, though the general consensus among locals is that it's a bit of a racket. If you end up going, the surrounding Blarney Castle and Gardens (which far predates the stone-kissing ritual) is a gorgeous property well worth a wander on a dry afternoon.

Drive the Wild Atlantic Way to the Dingle Peninsula

Go for:Secluded beaches, picturesque coastal trails and one of the most beautiful oceanside drives in the country

Once you leave Cork, you can drive along the Wild Atlantic Way for as much or as little of the remaining journey as you'd like. This breathtaking drive takes you clear up the west side of Ireland, hugging the coastline the whole way. It takes longer than the main roads, but a section or two is worth it for the views — assuming you don't mind narrow, winding roads on the edges of cliffs.

Regardless of your route, head to the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry and slowly work your way along Slea Head Drive, the peninsula's own portion of the Wild Atlantic Way. Prepare for jaw-dropping ocean views overlooking sandy beaches and dramatic rock formations. You can also drive the Ring of Kerry around the Iveragh Peninsula just south of Dingle, but at more than 100 miles, it takes much longer. Many argue Slea Head is the superior drive, despite being less well known.

If you're not sticking strictly to the coastal route, Killarney National Park is a gorgeous place to spend the day between Cork and Dingle. The town of Dingle itself should also be on your list. Ireland has no shortage of charming little towns, but Dingle is a shining example.

Get humbled by the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare

Go for:Staggering cliffs above the Atlantic

Next, head north to County Clare and the Cliffs of Moher, which deserve every inch of their reputation as one of Ireland's most beautiful sights. When I went, I walked from Liscannor on a warm day in June — about 90 minutes each way — and the view was worth the sweat. Even on a misty, moody day, this classic Atlantic overlook is not to be missed, and it's even better near sunset.

You can drive directly to the cliffs and snap a photo, but if you have the time and energy, consider walking from Doolin to the main viewpoint. It takes about two hours one way, but you'll get to stand at the cliff's highest point overlooking the wild waters below. Other County Clare highlights worth pinning on your map: the bohemian artist town of Ennistymon, with a cascading waterfall in the middle of town; Bunratty Castle and Folk Park for historic architecture and a 19th-century-style living village; and the ancient stone fortresses of the Aran Islands, if you have time for a boat journey.

Stumble into a fantasy world at Connemara National Park

Go for:Neo-Gothic architecture tucked into the forest, plus accessible hiking trails with big rewards

If you have time, make one last stop at Connemara National Park, northwest of Galway. At just over seven square miles, the park is small enough to explore in a day or two, and it majorly delivers on the enchanting-and-serene scale. There's the stately Kylemore Abbey (an active Benedictine abbey on the shores of Pollacapall Lough), the moderate and rewarding hike to Diamond Hill overlooking the ocean, and more beaches and scenic drives than you can fit in a single visit.

Galway is a popular base for exploring Connemara, and it's worth a visit for a pint, a meal, some entertainment and a place to rest your head. Just don't be surprised if it doesn't live up to your dreamiest Ireland expectations, especially after experiencing the less touristy towns along this route. Galway's biggest draw is its thriving live music scene, and places like The Crane Bar and Tig Cóilí are the best spots in the city for catching a session any day of the week.