美味しいワインと出会う旅

ピュリニー・モンラッシェ ・トリュフィエール ［2007］ 750mlPuligny Montrachet Truffieresトーマス・モレ Thomas Morey

最近兄弟にのれん分けしたワインです。

元はベルナール・モレです。トマ・モレとヴァンサン・モレに分かれました。まだ作りはほとんど同じですが、パーカー評価は91点と90点と1点差を付けています。

まあどちらにしろシャサーニュを代表する作り手である事には変わりありません。

クリーンで綺麗な酸のラモネ、樽使いが上手く、若飲み出来るモレ、タイプは違いますが、シャサーニュで最も安心して買える蔵の双璧です。

この兄弟の看板ワインがトリュフィエールです。元々数樽しか作っていない0.25haのトリュフィエールを2人で分けるのですから本当に手に入り難くなるでしょう。

まあこれは超弩級ワインですね。モンラッシェより旨い！！と言っても過言ではないでしょう。少なくとも3万円クラスのモンラッシェが足元にも及ばないと思います。

変に気合い入れ過ぎて作ったモンラッシェの不味い事と言ったら・・・・・

樽の使い方がベルナールは天才的に上手いです。07で若いのに熟成感があってボリューム感があります。この点においてはラフォンもラモネもルフレーヴもモレに勝てません。

実際にワイン会でモレを出すと他のラモネ、ルフレーヴ、ヴォギュエ、ソゼ、カリヨン等の一流ドメーヌが全部霞んでしまいます。それだけ若い時のモレはインパクトが強く、旨い！！と誰にでも言わせる力を持っています。熟成しても当然旨いのですが、若い時の旨さにひかれて全部飲んでしまうので、長期に熟成させた経験が少ない蔵です。

今日のトリュフィエールは絶品ですね。

ナッツ感、オイル感が強く、スケールの大きいワインです。

皆さんがモン系ワインに求める全てが詰っています。良いですね08も09も12本買いました。07は後僅かです。04、05、06は早売り切れました。

2007 Thomas Morey Chassagne Montrachet la Truffiere

eRobertParker.com # 186
Dec 2009 David Schildknecht 91 Drink: N/A $100 (100)
At six barrels (i.e. around 150 cases), Thomas Morey's 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet La Truffiere does not represent a small lot by the standards of this precious cru. Very ripe pear, pineapple, and heliotrope in the nose leads to a lush, creamy palate with persistently sweet floral perfume, cut and offset by a rhubarb-like tartness, and finishing with lift, elegance, and transparency to mineral nuance. This should be worth following for 5-6 years, I would guess (absent a track record).

Following the division of Bernard Morey's domaine between his two sons, Thomas Morey has set up facilities opposite his home in Chassagne and will supplement his 8.5 hectare acreage with contracts. A report on the inaugural vintage of his brother, Vincent, is also included in this report. There is an attractive tasting room, but Morey describes the cellar as just big enough, provided he racks the young wines out of the barrel and assembles them in tank before the next vintage is harvested.

ヴァンサン・モレ　ピュリニー・モンラッシェ・1er・ラ・トリュフィエール ［2007］750ml

2007 Domaine Vincent & Sophie Morey Puligny Montrachet la Truffiere

eRobertParker.com # 186
Dec 2009 David Schildknecht 90 Drink: 2009 - 2014 $100 (100)
Spiced pear, candied lime zest, heliotrope, musk, lily, and nut oils in the nose of the Moreys' 2007 Puligny-Montrachet La Truffiere lead to a lush, polished, and soothing yet still refreshing palate, carrying considerable sense of chalkiness at mid-palate. The sweet side of fruit, liquid lily perfume, and nuts comes out harmoniously in a caressing and not at all heavy finish. I would anticipate maximum pleasure over the next 3-5 years.

After inheriting his share of his father, Bernard Morey's domaine (split with his brother Thomas, on whose wines I have reported separately in this issue), Vincent Morey and his wife Sophie (whose family are wine growers in Santenay) have now combined acreage and produced their first wines out of the Morey family facilities. They began harvesting Chardonnay already at the end of August, achieving potential alcohols that varied by as much as 1.5% over their five days of harvest, and chaptalizing up to a degree to arrive at 13-13.5%. He performed a light clarification and stirred the lees regularly to fatten-up the wines. As a group, this year's collection was a bit obviously - at times obtrusively - marked by its oak (typically around 30-40% new), and richness seemed sometimes to have been bought at the price of refreshment, clarity, or site-distinctiveness. Like his brother, Vincent Morey reports that he is too short of cellar space to consider a barrel elevage that lasts longer the one year, but he supports the trend toward a longer, watchful stay in tank before the assembled wines are bottled.