About two years ago, I spotted my first gray —just a single silver strand tucked into my dark brown curls. Now, at 26, a few more have appeared, scattered throughout my hair. It’s not something that keeps me up at night, but it has made me pause and wonder: Why is my hair turning gray this early?
Genetics is one obvious theory—my mom’s side of the family has plenty of stories about going gray before they hit 30. Stress feels like another likely culprit, especially considering I’ve been operating in a near-constant state of overwhelm for months…if not years.
To make sense of my theories, I decided to go straight to the experts. Ahead, a dermatologist and two trichologists break down what actually causes hair to go gray in your 20s (or even earlier)—and whether there’s anything you can do to slow it down.
Meet Our Expert
-
Dr. Marisa Garshick is a board-certified dermatologist.
-
Jay Small is a trichologist and the founder of Arey.
-
Ebony Bomani is a licensed cosmetologist, certified trichologist, and Pattern Beauty brand educator.
What Happens Biologically When Hair Turns Gray?
Let's take it back to science class—there's quite an interesting biological process that happens when hair turns gray. "Hair gets its color from melanin, which is produced by melanocytes in the hair follicle," Dr. Garshick says. "As we age, these melanocytes gradually slow down and eventually stop producing pigment. When that happens, the hair grows in without color, appearing gray, silver, or white. In people who gray earlier, this process simply starts sooner."
What Is Considered Premature Graying?
So, at what age is it typical to start going gray, and when is it too soon? "Premature graying is defined as graying earlier than anticipated, which can vary by ethnicity and typically occurs before age 20-30," Dr. Garshick says. "That said, it is not uncommon for people to start noticing a few gray hairs in their late 20s or early 30s, and that can still fall within a normal range depending on family history."
To get more granular, Bomani points out, "Generally, graying is considered premature when it begins before age 20 in White individuals, before 25 in Asian individuals, and before 30 in Black individuals."
What Causes Gray Hair?
The causes of graying generally fall into two camps: factors we can't control and those we can. As it relates to the former, Small says, "Researchers have identified a specific gene called IRF4 that is linked to the greying process, yet it accounts for only about 30% of why our hair loses pigment. This gene regulates the production of an enzyme called tyrosinase, which directly impacts the amount of melanin our follicles can create."
Small notes: the remaining 70% is influenced by factors within our control, including our diet, internal stress levels, environmental stressors (such as UV radiation and pollution), and the natural process of biological aging. "This means that for the vast majority of us, our daily choices and the targeted support we give our scalps play the most significant role in maintaining our natural hair color," he says.
Nutrient Deficiencies
Some nutrient deficiencies can contribute to the onset of graying. "Low levels of vitamin B12 are one of the most commonly associated deficiencies," Dr. Garshick explains. "Iron deficiency, vitamin D deficiency, and low levels of folate or biotin may also contribute."
If you're wondering why nutrient deficiencies have an impact, the answer is intriguing. As Small explains, "Because hair is considered a 'non-essential' tissue, the body does not prioritize it when distributing nutrients; therefore, a deficiency in any of these areas can manifest as premature greying."
Medical Conditions
Underlying health issues may also contribute to grayness. "Certain autoimmune conditions, such as vitiligo, can affect pigment production as well," Dr. Garshick says. "Hormonal imbalances, particularly involving the thyroid, may also be linked to changes in hair pigmentation." To rule out medical ailments as a cause, Bomani recommends getting bloodwork done with your general physician.
Stress
Stress is one of the most commonly attributed factors to going gray. "Stress triggers a spike in cortisol levels, which can disrupt the body's ability to repair itself and maintain healthy, pigmented hair growth," Small says. "When cortisol remains elevated, it creates an inflammatory environment in the scalp that can exhaust the melanin stem cells responsible for your hair color. Essentially, chronic stress pushes the hair follicle out of its 'regeneration' phase and into a 'survival' mode, often resulting in a loss of pigment and a change in hair texture."
Environmental Triggers
Certain environmental factors can increase the number of gray hairs you see popping up. "UV exposure and environmental pollutants can generate free radicals, which may damage the cells responsible for pigment production over time," Dr. Garshick says.
Small likes to use the analogy of a brown spot on an apple to illustrate the effects of free radicals on the hair and skin. "If you address the source of the oxidation, the 'spread' is stopped," he says. "However, if left unchecked, the oxidative damage continues to compromise a larger area. If we do not counteract the free radicals resulting from daily life or lifestyle choices, they can slow, stop, or even corrupt the cellular activity in our follicles. The most common results are the visible signs of aging: hair greying, thinning, and skin inflammation."
Lifestyle Habits
The little habits we engage in daily can have a long-term impact on our hair, especially when it comes to graying. "Many lifestyle habits and environmental triggers cause oxidative stress, which is one of the leading drivers of premature graying," Small says. "When the body is exposed to stressors like smoking, alcohol, UV radiation, processed foods, or even harsh on-scalp hair dyes, it triggers the release of free radicals."
Is It Possible to Slow Down the Graying Process?
Once a strand of hair turns gray, the pigment it once carried is gone for good. "However, there may be ways to help slow progression overall by addressing underlying factors such as nutritional deficiencies, oxidative stress, and scalp health," Dr. Garshick says.
For cases that may be caused by nutritional deficiencies or stress, it's worth exploring supplements. "Antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E help combat oxidative stress, while B vitamins, especially B12, are important for maintaining healthy hair function," Dr. Garshick says.
Small recommends his brand's Arey Compound, which he describes as "a targeted blend featuring copper, PABA, black sesame extract, and Fo-Ti." He points out that this combination of nutrients provides the essential 'fuel' required for healthy pigment production within the hair follicle.
In addition to taking supplements, Dr. Garshick notes that using targeted topical treatments may also help reduce the appearance of grays. "For example, Arey To The Root Hair Serum is formulated with the patented Mela-9 complex, antioxidants, peptides, and ingredients like caffeine to help support the hair follicle, preserve natural pigment, support repigmentation, and promote a healthier growth environment," she says.
How to Care for Gray Hair
As grays start to appear, if you choose to embrace them, it's important to adjust your hair care routine so your silver strands look—and feel—as healthy and vibrant as possible. You may notice your grays feel drier or rougher than other parts of your hair—that's natural. "Melanin helps the hair to retain moisture, and when melanin is depleted, gray hair can be drier and a little more stubborn, so a good hydrating shampoo like Pattern's Hydration Shampoo , a moisture-rich conditioner like the Medium Conditioner , and a weekly mask (like the Breakage Barrier Mask ) go a long way," Bomani says.
Working purple shampoos into your routine can also help keep your gray hair bright (and not yellow looking), according to Dr. Garshick. She also emphasizes minimizing heat styling and protecting hair from UV exposure to prevent further dullness and discoloration over time.
The Final Takeaway
While gray hair isn’t a big deal to me personally, understanding the reasons behind it is empowering. I feel better equipped to care for my grays as more appear, and I’m even considering getting bloodwork to pinpoint the root cause—whether it’s stress, a nutrient deficiency, genetics, or a combination of factors. Either way, knowing that so many people experience this in their 20s makes having expert guidance all the more valuable.
Read the original article on Byrdie
