3 Korean Beauty Treatments That Are About To Be Big in the U.S.
It's no secret that K-beauty skincare brands have taken over store shelves in the U.S. South Korea is widely considered to be at the cutting edge of beauty technology,producing innovative skincare formulations and makeup textures . South Korea has even become a destination for medical tourists to get cosmetic treatments like lasers and injectables that are either more costly or not available at all in the States. But for those of us who can't go to a South Korean clinic, the treatments are now coming to us.
As a reviews analyst in the Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab , I get a sneak peek at what's next in the world of beauty, and I'm seeing that K-aesthetic treatments like Letybo (Korean Botox), Rejuran (PDRN), and Xerf (radiofrequency skin tightening), are coming to the U.S.Even Korean-style med spas, like Riko in New York City, are bringing in a Korean model of price transparency and on-demand treatment. I spoke to Korean aesthetic brands, someone who's done cosmetic tourism in Korea, and even tried one of these treatments myself to understand how the K-beauty wave will change med spas in the U.S.
How Korea does aesthetics differently
I've heard that the Korean approach to aesthetics is very different from the American one, but I wanted to hear from someone who's been there. I spoke to my colleague Contributing Writer and Analyst Jamie Ueda , who traveled to Korea this year and wrote about the skincare trends she saw. She shares that she was surprised by "the transparent volume of skin treatment facilities" in Korea, as well as the "wide variety of treatments and different machines available." She notes, "in Korea, there is more emphasis on prevention and consistent treatment over timeversus the U.S. where the focus tends to be more on fixing things. It's also more common to get treatments regularly as maintenance." Which is feasible because, she adds, "it's also more affordable than in the U.S."
I had my own experience with the K-aesthetic philosophy when I visited the Korean-style medical aesthetic clinic Riko in New York City. I was intrigued by their straightforward menu of treatments —injectables, lasers, even mole removal—complete with the price of each. I found Riko's model refreshingly transparent. "Operationally, we run the clinic the way Korean dermatology clinics do: pricing published upfront, quick and easy booking, and walk-ins welcome," says Riko's Medical Director Harim Kim, M.D. She echoes that the Korean approach is "maintenance rather than correction" an adds that for patients in Korea, "lifting and skin-tightening devices [like Xerf] are used regularly, typically once or twice a year" as a preventative measure.
I also got the sense from Ueda and Dr. Kim that due to greater availability and lower costs, going to a clinic for an aesthetic treatment is approached a bit more casually in Korea than in the U.S. Dr. Kim says, " visiting a skin clinic once or twice a month for basic maintenance is as routine in Korea as going to the nail salon" and Ueda adds, "some Korean clinics can move at a much faster pace than what we're used to here and are not what we would think of as a relaxing 'spa' experience." If not as cost-accesible as Korean clinics, med spas in the U.S. are certainly becoming easier to find as their numbers grow: the American Med Spa Association reports that the number of med spas increased from 8,899 in 2022 to 10,488 in 2023, with more growth projected.
One feature of Korean clinics that's making its way here is the skin analysis machine. These are devices that take photos of the face and use software to identify and score things like wrinkles, redness, and dark spots. Their hardware is similar to the Visia complexion analyzer we use for skincare testing in the GH Institute Beauty Lab, but their software is geared towards recommending treatments. TREAT Medspa in New York City is incorporating the technology at their practice, says CEO Ryan Block: "One thing I admire about Korean aesthetics is their emphasis on technology-driven analysis and personalized treatment planning." He says that TREAT uses the Aura 3D facial imaging system "to analyze concerns, personalize treatments, and track results over time."
What K-Aesthetic treatments can I get here?
If you're intrigued by the Korean approach to aesthetics, here are some K-beauty treatments you can get stateside:
Letybo
Letybo is an injectable neurotoxin that inhibits muscle movement to smooth wrinkles on the face, similar to Botox. Carrie Strom, President and Global CEO of Hugel , the company behind Letybo, says that it's the "number one best-selling neurotoxin in South Korea for 10 consecutive years—in one of the world's most competitive neuromodulator markets, where more than 15 products compete for market share." For context, Letybo is one of just six neurotoxins approved for use by the FDA.
There were hopes that the low costs Korean patients enjoy would come to the States. But in general, a Letybo treatment here is only about 10-20% cheaper than other neurotoxins like Botox or Dysport, the average cost of which is $435 per treatment . That's because in the U.S., prices are based more on an injector's expertise than the cost of the toxin itself.
As for Letybo's performance, Strom touts that it's "known for exhibiting predictable precision, also known as the focused field of effect," meaning that its movement-inhibiting effects stay close within the treated muscles rather than spreading across an area like the forehead.It is said to start taking effect a day or two faster than Botox, but in my experience, it would be hard to notice that difference because the onset of these treatments is gradual. Overall, it's a slightly more affordable option for smoothing wrinkles.
Xerf
Xerf is a radiofrequency skin-tightening treatment from Korean aesthetics company Cynosure Lutronic . It's now available at practices across America, including TREAT Medspa, where I tried it. Block says that Xerf is an " advanced monopolar radiofrequency technology that helps tighten skin, stimulate collagen production, and improve firmness with minimal downtime." Xerf is touted as being less painful than other skin tightening treatments like Ultherapy and Sofwave, so much so that it can be used without topical numbing. At TREAT, a Xerf treatment costs $1,600 to $3,200, depending on the areas being treated.
When I tried Xerf, I found it uncomfortable but not too painful. It took longer than I expected, almost an hour to treat my whole face. I didn't experience downtime beyond some tenderness the night of the treatment. I tried it as a preventative treatment, so I can't speak to whether it tightened my skin. Since it's recommended for those with only mild to moderate skin laxity, don't expect facelift-like results.
Rejuran
Rejuran is a leading brand of injectable PDRN, the skin-boosting treatment derived from salmon sperm. PDRN stands for "polydeoxyribonucleotide" and is composed of DNA fragments. PDRN is sometimes combined with larger fragments called polynucleotides (PN). When injected into skin, PDRN has been shown to promote skin's natural regenerative processes, making it appear younger.
While injecting Rejuran into the skin is popular in Korea, the product isn't approved for injection in the U.S. However, there are other PDRN-based Rejuran treatments to enjoy stateside.
Board-certified dermatologist Chang B. Son, M.D. , Medical Director for Rejuran, offers a variety of these treatments at his practice SCN Dermatology, which has locations in New York and New Jersey. He notes that PDRN and PN can be "administered either topically or more often in conjunction with other delivery modalities such as microneedling." Both Riko and TREAT offer microneedling with PDRN. Dr. Son adds that it can even be "delivered into the skin with the assistance of sonophoresis or low-frequency ultrasound devices."
PDRN can also be used to boost recovery after laser treatments, according to Dr. Son, who is offering a new, customizable line of treatments called Rejuran Pro at his practice. "For example, for patients undergoing more aggressive laser treatments, the protocol can be tailored to support skin recovery following treatment-induced injury," he says. "For patients with dry skin, the treatment can incorporate more hydrating ingredients to address their specific concerns." At his practice, Rejuran Pro costs between $150 to $400, depending on how the treatment is set up.
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GH Beauty Lab Reviews Analyst Chiara Butler wrote this article after interviewing providers and experts in the K-aesthetics space. She is a cosmetic chemist who has tested beauty products at GH since 2022. Each year, she reviews professional aesthetic treatments for the Good Housekeeping Beauty Awards .
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