The Water Method Could Be the Easiest Way to Get Plumper, More Hydrated Skin
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Among the millions of skin care ingredients that benefit skin, water is hands down the most crucial. Sounds basic, but it's true. Well-hydrated skin is plumper, smoother, and more radiant. While ingredients matter, a budding trend called the water method suggests that how you apply those skin care actives can, in fact, optimize your moisturized skin results. Dermatologists and aestheticians break down the process and whether or not its claims are legit.
What is the water method in skin care?
The technique involves applying hydrating products while your skin is still slightly damp, rather than waiting until it is completely dry. "After cleansing, I recommend gently patting away excess water so your face is damp but not dripping, then immediately applying a hydrating serum or essence followed by moisturizer," board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman describes to ELLE. "The idea is to take advantage of that residual moisture and help prevent water loss, leaving the skin looking plumper, smoother, and more hydrated."
L.A.-based facialist Candace Marino takes the process further with two additional steps at the start: "I recommend following your cleanser with a toner or micellar water before moving into the rest of your routine," she suggests, explaining that public tap water can contain disinfectant chemicals used to treat the water supply, dissolved minerals and metals, trace synthetic compounds, and, depending on the source and plumbing, other contaminants. "Water quality varies by location, and even treated water can leave mineral deposits on the skin. For some individuals, water quality and its mineral content may also contribute to irritation or dryness," says Marino. Even with a pH-balanced cleanser, rinsing with tap water can leave mineral residue and other traces behind. A toner or micellar water balances the skin and helps remove residual impurities, which then prepares the skin for the products that follow.
After that, Marino recommends applying a hydrating essence or mist while the skin is still slightly damp, followed by serums and moisturizer. "The goal is to create a well-prepared surface, build hydration, and then support the skin's ability to retain moisture," she explains.
Are skin flooding and the water method the same thing?
TikTok may have introduced you to skin flooding, but Engelman says it's not quite the same as the water method—though the two are related. "The water method focuses on applying skin care to damp skin, while skin flooding typically involves layering several hydrating products, such as a mist, essence, serum, and moisturizer, to maximize hydration," she explains. Both techniques rely on a similar principle: pairing water with ingredients that attract and retain moisture. "I always remind patients that you don't necessarily need a complicated, multi-step routine to get the benefits. Sometimes a hydrating essence and a good moisturizer are all you need," Engelman adds.
What are the benefits of applying skin care to damp skin?
Family nurse practitioner and founder of Atalier Aesthetix , Natalia Gusman, FNP-C, explains that applying skin care to slightly damp skin is one of the simplest ways to help maximize hydration without adding extra products to your routine. "When your skin is still damp, there's already water on the surface, and hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid can help attract and hold onto that moisture," Gusman states. She reiterates that one of the biggest benefits is that properly hydrated skin tends to look plumper, smoother, and more radiant. "When the skin is dehydrated, fine lines can become more noticeable, and the complexion may appear dull or tired. Improving hydration can temporarily soften the appearance of those fine lines and give the skin a healthier, more refreshed look."
Engelman recommends this method to people experiencing dehydration or tightness because, she says, it's a simple adjustment that doesn't require purchasing an entirely new skin care routine.
What kind of products and ingredients work best with this method?
Engelman says to look for humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and beta-glucan, which help attract and retain moisture. Lightweight, hydrating essences are well suited for this technique because you can layer them onto damp skin without a heavy feeling. She recommends IUNIK Beta-Glucan Lacto Barrier Milk Essence , which she says fits well into a hydration-focused routine. "I would follow it with a moisturizer to help support the skin barrier and reduce moisture loss. The combination of hydration and barrier support is what makes this approach effective."
Marino also stresses the importance of barrier support with this method. "For barrier support, I look for ingredients that help reduce moisture loss and support the skin's natural barrier, like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and squalane."
Additionally, Marino suggests antioxidants and peptides as a layer to help fight free radicals. The Forlle'd P-effect Refining Lotion is a great example of an essence I like to incorporate before serums. Its low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid helps support hydration, and the lightweight lotion fits well into a layered routine. A well-formulated mist can also be a lovely addition, particularly for clients who experience tightness or dehydration throughout the day.
I don't believe every layer needs to contain an active ingredient. Sometimes the best approach is a straightforward hydrating product that complements the rest of the routine without overwhelming the skin.
Does the water method work on all skin types?
All of the experts agree that there's significant benefit to the water method, no matter your skin type. Gusman notes that it's particularly helpful for individuals with dry, dehydrated, or mature skin. "As we age, our skin naturally becomes less efficient at retaining moisture, which can contribute to dryness, dullness, and the appearance of fine lines. Applying hydrating products to slightly damp skin can help improve moisture retention."
Don't count out oily and acne-prone skin either. Marino clarifies that the water method isn't exclusively for dry skin. The key is selecting the right products. Someone with oily or acne-prone skin may do better with lightweight, non-comedogenic, gel-based formulations, while someone with dry skin may benefit from a richer moisturizer.
If you're following Marino's version of the technique by starting with a toner, she says to choose that based on your skin type. "The toner should also be chosen according to the skin's condition. Some clients benefit from exfoliating or brightening formulas, while others need a gentle, hydrating option. For sensitive or barrier-compromised skin, I would keep the routine simple and focus on well-tolerated, barrier-supportive products rather than layering multiple active formulas."
Keep in mind, too, that if you're starting with dry skin, dead cells on the skin's surface may impact how well the method works. Marino stresses the importance of exfoliating before anything else. "Exfoliation is the key to hydration. I see so many people layering hydrating serums, oils, and rich creams onto their skin, wondering why they still struggle with dryness, dullness, and dehydration. But they're often missing a really important step: exfoliation," she says.
As dead skin cells accumulate on the surface, they can contribute to rough texture and dullness and affect how evenly skin care products distribute across the skin. "You can spend a fortune on beautiful hydrating products, but if you're layering them over excess surface buildup, you're not necessarily getting the results you're looking for," Marino shares.
Exfoliation won't make dry skin worse. It actually helps products absorb and layer better. Exfoliation, hydration, and barrier support work together. Marino recommends gentle enzymatic exfoliation because it removes dead skin buildup without relying on aggressive scrubbing or unnecessarily compromising the skin barrier.
Are there any downsides to the water method?
For the most part, there are many benefits to replenishing skin's moisture, but Gusman says if you have sensitive skin, rosacea, or a compromised skin barrier, keep the routine simple by avoiding unnecessary fragrances and irritating active ingredients and focusing on gentle, barrier-supporting formulations.
Also, according to Engelman, one of the biggest misconceptions is that applying every skin care product to damp skin will make it work better. "That's not necessarily true, and in some cases it can actually increase irritation. I generally recommend applying strong retinoids, exfoliating acids, and other potentially irritating treatments to fully dry skin, unless the product instructions say otherwise, because damp skin can increase penetration and make sensitive skin more reactive," she points out.
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