You probably haven't heard of spicules — but this unusual ingredient is taking over skin care

Spicule facials, also known as "liquid microneedling," have been a fixture of Korean skin care spas for years, and at-home versions in serum form are becoming increasingly popular. So, what are spicules, exactly? Well, they come from the ocean and are known as Spongilla Lacustris (which would make an excellent drag name, but I digress). "Spicules are microscopic structures derived from marine coral or sponges, ground into a powder form that is rigid and needle-like," explains Dr. Ava Shamban , a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills. "They can penetrate the skin and create micro-channels." 

Once they're in, the magic happens. "They increase penetration of actives (vitamin C, peptides, exosomes…), boost cell turnover, mildly stimulate collagen production and can improve texture, dullness and subtle fine lines," says Tama Tran , a board-certified aesthetic nurse practitioner and owner of Lily Medspa in Dallas. But before you consider spicules as a glorified exfoliant, know that they work very, very differently. 

How do spicules work?

The mechanism of spicules is where things get interesting, and where the microneedling comparison comes into play. Most physical exfoliators , such as sugar scrubs, rice bran and ground walnut shells, work by abrading the skin's surface, buffing away dead cells. However, spicules do something else.

As Shamban explains, even as these calcium carbonate spicules are ground into a powder and formulated into a serum, they still remain rigid and even prickly. "The thousands of tiny needle-shaped structures are designed to 'settle' into the skin's upper layers to form temporary microchannels," she says. "They are subsequently expelled through natural skin cell turnover." Even though these little guys can mimic the mechanism of action in traditional microneedling, she describes it as a milder version operating at a shallower depth.

"The micro-channels typically remain active for up to about 24 hours, which will increase the skin permeability for a deeper active ingredient absorption," adds Shamban. That 24-hour window is vital, as it affects everything you apply afterward (peptides, growth factors, your best hyaluronic acid serums , etc.) After that, the spicules shed and your skin renews itself. 

Do spicules hurt?

Well, it can definitely tingle! Shamban points out that as part of the inflammatory healing response, your skin might experience some redness and mild swelling. Most users describe the sensation as a mild prickling when the spicules settle in, which typically resolves within minutes. VT Cosmetics' Reedle Shot line is a good example of what you can expect, as their numbering system (50, 100, 300, 700...) essentially functions as a stinginess scale. The 50 and 100 are a mild tingle, the 300 is noticeably more intense and the 700 is not for the faint of heart. 

So, start low, build slowly and remember that a stronger tingle is not the same thing as a better result. "The real issue of concern can stem from irritation, aggravation and inflammation caused by overusing the product, potentially leading to chronic inflammation," says Shamban.

Who should and shouldn't use spicules?

Tran says spicules are generally safe but not for everyone. As long as they're used correctly and at an appropriate concentration, those with normal, oily and combination skin can benefit from spicules. (And perhaps even achieve the coveted glass skin effect .)

Both Shamban and Tran point out that spicules might be risky for people with rosacea, eczema, active acne breakouts or wounds and a compromised barrier. After all, creating micro-channels in already inflamed or compromised skin can be a one-way ticket to Irritation City. 

How do you use spicules?

After cleansing, you'll want to gently pat (rather than aggressively rub) the serum into your skin. Then, immediately after, apply the rest of your skin care to take advantage of that 24-hour absorption window. Shamban recommends using formulas that contain skin-nourishing ingredients such as ceramides, vitamin E, allantoin, lipids, glycerin, squalane or hyaluronic acid to balance the exfoliating effects. "The microchannels allow for deeper penetration of the hydrators or barrier builders," she says. "Adding a more emollient or occlusive lotion or cream at night will help prevent water loss and seal in moisture as well."

Something to keep in mind: There's a risk when you combine spicules with certain actives, including retinols, vitamin C and AHAs. "I would caution against spicule skin care and higher-level retinoids or prescription retinol," says Shamban. Instead, alternate them à la skin cycling. "The increased absorption factor can also increase dryness and irritation." It's best to start slow, using them once a week, then gradually increasing the frequency, depending on the product and strength level. Avoid using your LED mask, microcurrent or other skin care devices with these as well, since the heat or light can cause irritation.

Overall, Shamban finds them to be a promising addition to a routine. "They can be incorporated for exfoliating and improved product absorption for those who have healthy, resilient skin types," she says. "They can work well, but always keep in mind that more is not always better."

Spicules products to try