I Used a Moisturizer-Free ZO Skin Health Regimen for 3 Months—Here’s My Product-by-Product Review
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A few months ago I accepted an invitation from ZO Skin Health —the namesake brand of renowned dermatologist Dr. Zein Obagi—to experience a facial using some of the brand's hero products. I walked into Diamond Advanced Aesthetics , a Madison Avenue med spa , and was greeted by a woman serving caviar and blinis from a station strapped to her leather apron, along with members of the brand's marketing team, who all had the brightest, glassiest complexions I had ever seen. (Talk about good marketing.)
Among them was Michael Marcano , ZO Skin Health CMO, who walked me through the brand's history and Dr. Obagi's unique skincare philosophy. At its core, the philosophy focuses on promoting the skin's natural cell turnover and supporting its moisture barrier. You'll find numerous exfoliators and antioxidant serums in the line, but, notably, no moisturizer. Quite controversially, Marcano explained, Dr. Obagi doesn't recommend the regular use of the product. His claim is that it causes skin dependence, compromises barrier function and weakens skin's ability to hydrate and renew itself. Shocking, I know—but also intriguing.
With that revelation in mind, I headed into the treatment room where the esthetician scrubbed, steamed, patted and massaged my skin using a ZO Skin Health lineup. I'm glad she took before photos, because I was blown away by the afters; my face was noticeably lifted, my pores smooth and decongested, my skin beaming with an all-over glow. And, yes, despite the lack of a traditional moisturizer, my skin felt plump and hydrated.
I was an instant believer. So when I met afterward with Karen Eustache , a licensed esthetician with the brand, and she prescribed a personalized ZO Skin Health skincare routine based on my skin type and goals, I was more than willing to try. Three months later, here's my product-by-product review of the regimen—and an update on my skin.
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1. ZO Skin Health Gentle Cleanser
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
The first step of any skincare routine is, of course, a good cleanser. This one is electric blue and smells so refreshing. It's formulated to be gentle and used by all skin types, which is great for me and my combination skin. Ingredients include oat amino acids and a botanical blend that delivers antioxidants while cleansing. What I love about it is that it leaves my skin feeling clean but not stripped, so I don't experience any dryness afterward.
2. ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
Confession: I don't exfoliate my skin nearly enough. At every facial appointment I've ever gone to, the esthetician would take one look at my nose and scold me. The dryness, the flakiness, the congested pores—all of this, they would tell me, would be addressed by exfoliating. Alas, I remained hesitant due to how dry the process would always make my skin feel. But given how crucial it is to the ZO Skin Health philosophy, I embraced this exfoliating polish. I only use it a few times a week (although the goal is to actually use it every night), and immediately after scrubbing, my face feels baby-smooth and soft. It is a physical exfoliant; it's thick and grainy with ultra-fine magnesium oxide crystals, which are what slough off the dead skin. But it also features vitamin C to brighten—likely the source of my luminous glow after completing the process.
3. ZO Skin Health Complexion Renewal Pads
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
I haven't been this obsessed with toner pads since my days of using Stridex religiously (IYKYK).Thankfully, these feel a lot gentler on the skin and don't leave it feeling stripped and dry. Each plant-based pad is soaked in a mixture of glycolic and salicylic acid, two chemical exfoliants that clear the gunk out of pores and wipe away dead skin cells. The formula also boasts a botanical blend meant to calm the skin, which helps bring balance to the treatment. Instead of looking red and raw after swiping one (or two) of these across my face, my complexion looks bright and even-toned, my skin instantly smoother and more refined. I love using one first thing in the morning because it makes my skin look fresh and awake, but I'll also reach for one at night. More than once, I've been surprised by how much dirt and oil the pad picks up in the evening, even on days when I skipped makeup and only walked to and from the coffee shop.
4. ZO Skin Health Instant Pore Refiner
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
When I mentioned my concern of enlarged-looking pores on my nose and the inner corners of my cheeks, the ZO Skin Health team recommended the Instant Pore Refiner. The lightweight serum targets pores in two ways: first, by reducing oil to mattify the skin and, second, by lightly exfoliating the area. I apply it either day or night (sometimes both) just on my nose and across the top of my cheeks. On its own, the formula can feel a bit drying, which is kind of the point. But with regular use, I've noticed far less buildup around my nose and less prominent pores. I won't lie and say they've disappeared, but they no longer catch my eye the second I look in the mirror, which says a lot.
5. ZO Skin Health Illuminating AOX Serum
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
Consider this a.m. serum a suit of armor for your skin—one that glints and shines in the sun just as much a literal one. In the daytime, I follow up the pore refiner with this antioxidant-packed formula, which purports to provide all-day protection against environmental stressors (including pollution) to combat signs of early aging, all while supplying a luminous finish overall. It feels light and hydrating, and immediately revitalizes my complexion. No dullness here. It's also the perfect step before sunscreen because it creates a silky-smooth canvas without causing pilling.
6. ZO Skin Health Daily Power Defense Serum
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
In the evening, after cleansing and applying the pore refiner, I reach for this serum. The first word that comes to mind to describe it? "Soothing." So, so soothing. Given that it's formulated with vitamins A and E, plant stem cells and a plant-derived polysaccharide complex (aka sugar molecules) for hydration and barrier support, it makes sense. Applying it after a long day feels like giving my skin exactly what it needs to recover.
7. ZO Skin Health Growth Factor Serum
Original photo by Stephanie Maida
Last, but certainly not least, is the product I look forward to using most. I'm 35 and hoping to extend the time before I turn to injectables, so I'm all about a topical solution that addresses fine lines and the loss of skin density and firmness. Made with plant- and enzyme-derived growth factors, this luscious, velvety serum brings a suppleness to my skin like no other. And while it feels rich—richer than any other ZO Skin Health product in my lineup—it doesn't smother my skin. It still feels like my pores can breathe. I credit this serum for lifting the droopy areas around my mouth, restoring the bounce to my cheeks and smoothing out the fine lines that had been developing on my forehead and around my eyes. Although, cumulatively, I'm sure all of these products played a part.
3 Months In, My Overall Results
The three-month difference in my skin (Original photos by Stephanie Maida)
I started this ZO Skin Health regimen in the middle of a cross-country move, so my skin was battling stress, a new, drier environment and a major shakeup from its typical routine. I also flew back and forth from L.A. to New York multiple times in a span of a few weeks. Needless to say, these products had their work cut out for them. But consistency paid off. My complexion, which had become red, splotchy and bumpy during the transition, has finally settled down.
The dry, flaky patches that used to plague my skin—even before the move—have all but disappeared. And given my newfound dedication to exfoliation, my skin is consistently smoother and clearer.
I'll admit that I called in an emergency after traveling and coated my face with a thick layer of the Avène Cicalfate+ cream a few nights before bed, but for the most part I followed Dr. Obagi's advice and steered clear of moisturizer. That said, I'm shocked by how hydrated and glass-shiny my complexion has become. Bottom line: I plan to use every item in my ZO Skin Health routine to the last drop, and would repurchase all of them—but especially the Growth Factor serum, even if it is a splurge.
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