How to hem jeans — with or without a sewing machine

The only thing trickier than shopping for the perfect pair of jeans? Hemming them yourself. "Denim is unforgiving. If you rush it or use the wrong setup, you'll get broken threads, skipped stitches or worse," says Scott Liebenberg, founder and designer at Tapered Menswear . But have no fear! We're here with expert tips and tricks to help you every step of the way. "When the hem is right, the jeans sit better on your shoes, they move properly when you walk and the whole outfit feels intentional," he says.   

With the right prep and a bit of patience, you can ace the process — whether you have a sewing machine or not. There are several beginner-friendly ways to shorten denim without sacrificing fit or finish. Below, we break down what to do (and what not to do) before you grab the scissors.

Before you get started

Hemming jeans is easier if you keep these tips in mind:

• Know your denim."Raw denim, especially the heavier stuff, is by far the most stubborn," says Liebenberg. High-stretch denim can also be tricky to hem cleanly. "The elastane content means the fabric can ripple or warp if it's not stitched evenly, and most home machines struggle a bit with that unless you really take your time." 

• Plan for shrinkage.Some denim, especially raw denim, can shrink quite a bit after washing, so it's smart to pre-wash or factor in extra length before hemming, says Liebenberg. 

• Test first.Before you hem your actual jeans, try a few stitches on a scrap of similar fabric or an inconspicuous area. This helps you dial in on things like thread, stitch length and tension without risking your favorite pair.

• Prep carefully.Careful pinning and measuring make the sewing process much smoother. "The better you prep and pin, the easier the sewing is," says Mallorie Dunn, a sewing and fashion design instructor at FIT and Pratt and owner of SmartGlamour . "Take the time, it's worth it."

• Slow down.You know the old adage: "Measure twice, cut once." Rushing can lead to uneven hems, puckering or broken threads. 

What You'll Need

A fully stocked sewing studio isn't necessary to hem jeans at home. A few basics will get the job done:

• Jeans(ideally pre-washed to avoid shrinking)

• Measuring tape to mark your inseam accurately

• Fabric scissors for cutting cleanly through thick denim

• Pins or sewing clipsto hold the hem in place

• Iron and ironing boardfor pressing

• Chalk or a washable fabric markerfor marking the hem

If using a sewing machine:

• Sewing machine (a basic home unit works just fine)

• Thick, high-quality thread in a color that closely matches your jeans

• Sturdy needle (size 14–18 works best for denim, depending on thickness)

If hemming by hand:

• Hand-sewing needle (choose a strong, sharp needle that can pierce denim without bending)

• Thread (opt for thicker thread for durability and a more polished finish)

How to hem jeans using a sewing machine

Hemming jeans with a sewing machine isn't the only way to do it — and it's not always the easiest if you've never used one before. But if you do have access to a machine (or feel comfortable learning the basics), it's one of the most durable options and creates a clean, long-lasting hem that holds up to frequent wear and washing.

1. Try on the jeans and decide on your length

Put on the jeans with the shoes you're most likely to wear with them (you don't need to account for every pair — just avoid using extreme heel heights as your guide). Fold the hem up to your desired length, then stand and sit to make sure the break looks right in both positions, since denim can ride up slightly when seated. 

2. Mark the hem while you're wearing them

While the jeans are still on, mark the folded hem with chalk or a washable fabric marker. You can mark a few points around each leg. This gives you a reference point once the jeans come off.

3. Take the jeans off and refine the line

Lay the jeans flat and use a measuring tape to even out your marks into a straight line all the way around each leg. This will be your final hemline and ensures both legs end up the same length.

4. Add room for the hem

A hem needs extra fabric to fold under and sew cleanly. Most jeans require about ½ inch of additional length for this fold. Measure down from your hemline and mark a second line — this is where the fabric will be folded, not where the jeans will end.

5. Fold and press

Fold the denim up along the hemline and press firmly with an iron. A crisp fold keeps the fabric from shifting as you sew and makes it much easier to get an even hem, says Liebenberg. 

6. Pin the hem in place

Use pins or sewing clips to secure the folded hem evenly around the leg. This prevents the denim from twisting, stretching or bunching as it feeds through the sewing machine, says Dunn.

7. Set up your machine

Use a sturdy denim needle and thick, high-quality thread that matches your jeans. "Cheap thread can be wound incorrectly, giving tension that is too loose or too tight and affect stitching," says Dunn. Stick with a basic straight stitch and your machine's default settings to start. 

8. Sew slowly and steadily

Sew around the hem at a controlled pace, removing pins as you go. Guide the fabric gently and let the machine pull it through. Pulling can cause skipped stitches, puckering or uneven tension.

9. Secure the stitches

At the start and end of your seam, sew a few stitches forward, then a few stitches backward over the same spot. This creates a small reinforced section called a backstitch, which locks the thread in place so the hem won't unravel over time.

10. Press again and try them on

Give the finished hem one last press with the iron to smooth everything out and set the stitches. Try the jeans on before trimming loose threads — it's your final chance to check the length and make sure everything looks even.

How to hem jeans by hand

Experts don't always recommend hand-sewing, because the thickness of denim can make it challenging and it's slower than using a machine. But if you're working with lighter-weight or stretch denim, or don't have a sewing machine, you can achieve a neat, professional-looking hem with careful prep, the right stitch and a little patience.

1. Try on the jeans and decide on the length

Put the jeans on with the shoes you'll most likely wear. Fold the hem to your desired length, then stand and sit to make sure the break looks right in both positions.

2. Mark the hem

While wearing the jeans, mark a few dots around each leg with chalk or a washable fabric marker. This gives you a reference once the jeans are off.

3. Lay flat and refine the line

Take the jeans off and lay them flat. Use a measuring tape to even out your marks into a straight line all the way around each leg.

4. Add room for the hem

A hem needs extra fabric to fold under. From your hemline, measure down about ½ inch and draw a second line — this is the edge of the fold, not where the jeans will end. Folding to this line ensures the hem has enough fabric to sew neatly without making the jeans too short.

5. Fold and press

Fold the denim up along the hemline and press firmly with an iron. A crisp fold keeps the stitches straight and the hem neat.

6. Pin the hem

Secure the folded hem with pins or sewing clips to prevent twisting or bunching.

7. Thread your needle

Use a strong, sharp needle suitable for denim and a thicker thread that matches your jeans.

8. Choose your stitch

• Slip stitchis the simplest option for beginners. The needle catches only a tiny bit of the folded fabric and the main body of the jeans, creating almost invisible stitches on the outside.

• Backstitchis stronger and more durable. Sew a few stitches forward, then a few backward over the same spot, locking the thread in place. It's more visible than a slip stitch but very sturdy.

• BlindstitchIs a good compromise between invisibility and durability. The stitches are mostly hidden on the outside, but the hem stays secure.

9. Sew the hem

Starting at one side of the leg, follow the pinned fold carefully, keeping your stitches small and even. Work slowly and check frequently to make sure the hem stays straight and flat, removing pins as you go. A steady pace prevents puckering, twisting or uneven stitches, and helps you maintain a neat, professional finish.

10. Secure the thread and press

Tie a simple knot at the end of your thread and trim any excess. Give the hem a final press with an iron to smooth everything out and set the stitches.

How to hem jeans with the original hem

The original hem technique — sometimes called the "tailor's method" — shortens jeans without changing how the bottom edge looks. Instead of creating a brand-new hem, you remove the original hem, shorten the leg and then reattach that same finished edge at the new length.

This matters most for jeans that already have character, like washed, distressed or broken-in denim, says Elizabeth Davey, director of product at DUER . On these styles, a standard hem can look noticeably newer and cleaner than the rest of the jean. Reusing the original hem keeps the bottom of the leg consistent with the rest of the denim, so the alteration doesn't stand out.

Despite its nickname, this isn't always a tailor's first choice. Many professionals prefer to recreate a factory hem using a chain-stitch machine, says Dunn. But for tailors without that equipment — or for anyone hemming jeans at home — the original hem method is a reliable alternative. It takes a bit more work and can add slight bulk on the inside of the leg, but from the outside, the finish looks seamless.

1. Try on and mark

Put the jeans on with the shoes you plan to wear most often. Fold the leg up to your desired length and mark where you want the jeans to end.

2. Measure

Take the jeans off and lay them flat. Measure from your mark down to the bottom edge of the existing hem. This number is the amount of length you'll be removing from the jeans.

3. Cut off the original hem 

Cut straight across the leg just above the original hem, keeping the hem piece intact. Set it aside — you'll be sewing it back on later.

4. Shorten the leg 

From the bottom edge of the main leg (where you just cut), measure up the same amount you measured in the second step. Cut off the excess fabric to bring the jeans to the correct length before the hem is reattached.

5. Align the original hem

Place the original hem piece onto the shortened leg with the right sides facing each other. Match the side seams carefully and pin all the way around.

6. Sew 

Using a straight stitch, sew around the leg where the original hem meets the jeans. Go slowly and keep your stitching even for the most seamless look. 

7. Press

Use an iron to press the seam upward on the inside of the leg so it lies flat. From the outside, the hem should look untouched and original.

How to hem jeans without cutting

Reversible hemming techniques are especially useful when you're unsure about length or plan to wear the same jeans with different shoes, says Dunn. While they're not as permanent as a sewn hem, they're beginner-friendly and easy to undo.

The fold-and-press method

This is the simplest no-cut option and works best on stiffer denim. The fold remains visible, and on wider or cropped legs, it can create a subtle cuffed look.

1. Try on and fold the hem.Put the jeans on with your usual shoes. Fold the bottom edge up to your desired length.

2. Press to set.Take the jeans off and use an iron to press a strong crease along the fold.

The hidden cuff method

The extra fabric is tucked inside the leg, so nothing is visible from the outside. It's best for stiffer denim that can hold a fold.

1. Try on and fold inward.Put the jeans on and fold the hem up toward the inside of the leg until the jeans hit your desired length.

2. Even out the fold.Take the jeans off and smooth the fabric all around each leg so it lies flat. 

3. Press to set.Use an iron to press the tucked-in hem, which helps it hold its shape.

Fabric tape method

This method is fast, beginner-friendly and works on any type of denim — soft, stretchy or stiff. The fold can be hidden inside the leg or left slightly visible for a cuffed look, depending on your style preference.

1. Fold to length.Put on your jeans and fold the hem inward (or outward for a cuffed effect) to your desired length.

2. Apply fabric tape .Place between the folded fabric and the main leg. Make sure it's evenly positioned around the entire hem.

3. Press.Use an iron to heat the tape according to the package instructions. This bonds the fold in place and keeps it secure.

4. Check and adjust.Once the tape has cooled, make sure the fold is even all the way around. The hem is now held without sewing and can be easily adjusted or undone if needed.

FAQs on how to hem jeans

Follow these tips for hemming jeans:

1. Consider your denim first

Different fabrics behave differently, and knowing what you're working with can save you a lot of frustration. Raw denim shrinks and can be stubborn, while stretch denim can ripple if stitched unevenly. If you're new to DIY hemming, lighter-weight or pre-washed denim is easier.

2. Iron before and after

A crisp fold keeps the hem even and makes sewing or folding much easier. "For anyone trying to hem jeans at home, the biggest tip I'd give is to press your fold properly before stitching," says Liebenberg. "That clean fold is everything."

3. Get to know your machine

"The most common mistake beginners make is not understanding how their sewing machine works," says Zach Frisbie , an artist and independent fashion designer. "It's important to learn the basics of sewing, but learning to set the thread tension and do simple maintenance will save you from a lot of headaches."

4. Choose the right needle and thread

Use thick, high-quality thread and a sturdy needle — size 14 to 18 for most home machines. This is especially important for heavier or stretch denim, which can ripple or warp if not handled carefully, says Dunn. 

5. Pin strategically

Incorrect pinning is the main cause of bunching or twisting. "You're pinning a circle, so don't start in one place and go around. Start at one inseam or outseam, then do the other. Then find the 'middles' between and keep going to the middles and middles until the whole thing is pinned," says Dunn. 

Troubleshooting tips

Fabric bunching or twisting

Stop sewing and remove the hem stitching. Lay the leg flat and re-pin from scratch, starting at the inseam and outseam, then filling in evenly between them. This resets the fabric so it feeds straight instead of spiraling as you sew.

Uneven hems

If one side looks longer, don't guess. Measure from the crotch seam down to the hem on both legs to confirm they match. Re-press the fold before resewing to lock the fabric in place and prevent it from shifting under the needle. 

Skipped stitches or broken thread

This usually means your setup can't handle the denim. Switch to a thicker needle (size 14–18) and a strong thread made for sewing or denim. If stitches are still skipping, slow down and slightly lengthen your stitch.

Puckering on stretch denim

This happens when the fabric is stretched as it's sewn. Don't pull the jeans from the front or back of the machine — just guide them lightly. Let the machine move the fabric on its own so the hem stays flat once the tension is released.

What's the best way to hem jeans?

The best method depends on your denim and how permanent you want the hem to be. 

• A sewing machinegives the most durable, long-lasting result, especially for heavier denim. 

• Hand sewingworks well for lighter-weight or stretch styles if you don't have a machine. 

• No-cut methodsare the most beginner-friendly and easy to undo, making them a good option if you're unsure about length.

Meet our experts

• Scott Liebenberg, founder and designer at Tapered Menswear

• Mallorie Dunn, sewing/fashion design instructor at FIT and Pratt and owner of SmartGlamour

• Elizabeth Davey, director of product at DUER

• Zach Frisbie , an artist and independent fashion designer