M&S vs John Lewis: How do their autumn/winter collections compare?

While the industry readies itself for another fashion month circuit, those of us in the real world are considering which high street stores are going to provide us with stylish new staples with which we can refresh our wardrobes .

For many people, John Lewis and Marks & Spencer are the first ports of call: both have a nationwide bricks-and-mortar footprint, providing in-person shopping across the country – even in areas that might otherwise be a fashion retail desert. Their sheer scale and influence makes them the two middle-class bellwethers of the British high street .

In short, what they offer fashion-wise matters, and, like the September issues of magazines, the September offering is their most important fashion collection of the year. Yes, spring/summer is also key, but the customer spend is higher in autumn/winter because coats, boots and partywear tend to cost more than sundresses, sandals and linen separates.

As fashion editors, we are granted an early look at these collections, and this time we decided that it could be helpful to compare the two, in terms of offering, style, fit and price.

John Lewis: Great for classic staples

I have felt, for the past few seasons, a bit disappointed by John Lewis, but it has improved big time. It is now definitely somewhere worth exploring for fashion, with hero pieces such as the reversible car coat, the slinky red skirt with a flower motif, utility trousers and Japanese denim.

There's a clear push towards fewer synthetic fabrics in some pieces, but with it comes a slightly higher price point.

I think we can expect it to improve further in the coming seasons, as its new fashion creative director Jacqui Markham's influence takes hold. The current accessories designer, who previously worked at Jigsaw and Rejina Pyo, has been in place for around a year, and there are some hits in the brown suede moccasins and green satin kitten heels. I loved the redtbrown two-tone leather tote – chic and practical with both long and short handles.

There's a focus on timelessness and quality with a nod to trends, rather than a slavish devotion, which, I imagine, is exactly what its customer wants.

Marks & Spencer: Best for a considered take on trends

M&S is a few years ahead on its fashion turnaround, and it continues to go from strength to strength. I didn't want to sound like an extra on the brand's television advert, but I couldn't help but say "love that" on repeat as I walked around the showroom, making a mental note of the pieces I planned to add to my own wardrobe.

You can see the influence of catwalk must-haves running throughout the ranges: a Chanel-esque square-toe heel; a Chloé-like camisole at Per Una; Saint Laurent-style lace and leather… Cult label Róhe has a following for its £660 pankou jackets – at M&S that "It" detail appears on a cream satin blouse and a lightweight wool-blend cropped coat. For the woman who covets these designer silhouettes but lacks the disposable income, this collection delivers and then some.

Textured Knot Button Detail Short Jacket, £46, M&S

Not that it's too trendy. It's more like they're gently taking the customer by the hand, and guiding her into a more current style era. Maddy Evans, the director of M&S womenswear, says they're judicious about which looks they buy into, and which they don't.

And they want you to do more than just buy a garment, they're working hard to show the customer all of the ways they can wear each piece – a couple of the blazers were styled with the lapel pulled across the chest and fastened with a brooch at the collarbone, à la Chanel, but they can also be worn the usual way. Furry collars are removable, and they've gone big on lightweight pieces that can be layered over one another for a more "styled" aesthetic.

Here's how the two brands compare on autumn/winter staples. If you're wondering about the lack of dresses, well, there weren't that many and what I did see didn't blow me away. These are the categories that are worthy of your time and money.

The coats

The John Lewis offering is much more traditional, with a swingy poppy-hued coat, a cobalt cropped number and a smart grey tweed, which is very fitted, so size up if you want to wear layers underneath.

At M&S the coats lean harder into different aesthetics – the safer styles are there, but what stood out to me was the variety: bolder, feathery takes on faux fur, the glossy croc, the quilted, cropped parka… You don't have to play it safe unless you want to.

For those that do want a more timeless, investment piece, Jaeger nails it. You can feel that the wool and cashmere content is higher – the pink cropped coat is sure to be a bestseller, as is the long, belted charcoal style – that would be my preference over the John Lewis tweed, even if it is twice the price.

The trench coats

An autumn staple, we can count on every high-street retailer to bring out a new iteration of the trench at this time of year. Both M&S and John Lewis have done a chocolate brown version, but they're quite different.

The John Lewis one is in a very dark, cool shade of brown, in a crisp cotton twill, with an oversized silhouette – it looked great on, and would be a brilliant everyday piece. The M&S version is warmer in tone, rendered in a glossy satin and therefore much more of an evening piece. I'd call this a tie, because your choice will depend on what you need a trench for.

Also worth a mention in this category is John Lewis's reversible trench, which is more of a car coat as it doesn't come with a belt. On one side it's a cool beige, and the other is a heritage-style check. Reversible styles always get a thumbs up from me, and this is done very well.

The tailoring

M&S has a lovely rusty micro-check, a neutral that would be a great new player in anyone's wardrobe. I liked the drape of it, and it looked gorgeous with a couple of brooches pinned to the lapel.

The John Lewis hero suit is more oversized, in a great shade of chocolate (the colours generally are very well judged), but a more wintery, 100 per cent wool fabrication, and a more androgynous silhouette.

The knits

John Lewis has gone big on a fuzzy cashmere blend, which is very soft and the texture definitely adds a little something extra to an outfit. It'd look lovely with satin, denim and tweed alike. If you already have a good arsenal of grey and navy knits, these offer something different. My favourite was a sludgy green colourway.

Brushed cashmere-blend cardigan, £109, John Lewis

At M&S, the trophy knits were this little grey cardigan, with a removable collar, and a punchy red roll neck. Again, it'll depend on your personal style and the gaps in your wardrobe, but there are winners at both retailers.

From left: Faux fur collar cardigan, £38 and cashmere funnel neck jumper, £95 both at M&S

The utility trouser

I was really impressed with the fit and feel of both the M&S and John Lewis versions of this modern staple. Both featured a button at the ankle so that you have the option of wearing them as a wide-leg. M&S has the edge though, purely because the price is so reasonable.

From left: Cargo trousers, £38 at M&S and chino trousers, £59, John Lewis

The hero skirt

The lack of strong dresses in both collections is more than made up for by the skirts. Unfortunately, John Lewis's red satin number with a flower motif has already sold out, and there's no word yet on whether it will be restocked.

Over at M&S, its black lace skirt is brilliantly executed for grown-ups who love the lingerie-inspired look, but don't want to bare too much skin. There's also an excellent black knee-length kilt that will sell out in microseconds. On your Marks…

Jeans

M&S is the number one retailer for women's denim on the British high street, with good reason. It has great cuts and the £40 price point is hard to beat. The barrel leg remains its best seller – and its newest style is an evolution of that, with an extra pleat of fabric running down the side into a slightly tapered ankle.

John Lewis doesn't have the same breadth of offering – its denim department is bolstered by labels such as Mother and Akyn – but its dark Japanese denim jeans are worth trying – the fit and feel are excellent.

Japanese denim straight-leg jeans, £149 at John Lewis

The shoes

Both brands had shoes that wowed me. At John Lewis it was the satin kitten mule, which looked very expensive and elegant.

Satin kitten-heel mule, £89 at John Lewis

At M&S it was the Chanel-alike heel, although I'm finding more and more of the women I know simply won't wear anything higher than a mid-heel anymore. Perhaps that's why the sparkly sock-like flat appealed to me so much. It'd look gorgeous peeking from the hem of a pair of palazzo pants.

Sparkly high-vamp pump, £55 at M&S

The bags

You can see that Rejina Pyo pedigree in the John Lewis offering – roomy designs, sculptural shapes and sophisticated shades. These are your everyday heroes done very well.

The new John Lewis bag offering – everyday heroes done very well

I'd head to M&S for evening bags – a velvet elongated clutch or a satin pouch. All of them are big enough for a smartphone, lipstick and a set of house keys, unlike some of those designer micro bags that became so mystifyingly popular for a hot minute.

Try full access to The Telegraph free today. Unlock their award-winning website and essential news app, plus useful tools and expert guides for your money, health and holidays.