After visiting Katsunuma a few times between the 2000s and 2010s, I hadn’t been back for over a decade. The sudden decision to go this time actually had a reason: both of my kids got their driver’s licenses last year and had been driving for about a year, but neither of them had ever tried the expressway. So the idea came up—why not go for a family drive and let them practice? That became the starting point of this day trip. Originally, the plan was simply to drive along the Tomei Expressway, grab a meal at Ebina Service Area, and head back. But since we were already going, we thought, “Why not a little farther?”
It wasn’t me who suggested Katsunuma. My wife and son—who has recently taken an interest in wine—decided on that destination. Until I got in the car, I honestly thought we were headed toward Lake Kawaguchi. (Had I known in advance, I would have brought an insulated bag for carrying wine.) The simple plan was: tour Suntory’s Tomi no Oka Winery, have lunch at the restaurant there, then buy some wine and grapes before heading home.
As it turned out, the whole trip was, to put it bluntly, a disaster.
First of all, my daughter overslept, so we didn’t leave home until after 11 a.m. Then, once we got on the Chuo Expressway, it was absolutely packed. The distance to Katsunuma is only about 110 km, so I assumed we’d make it in about two hours, including some time on local roads. In reality, it took more than three hours—we didn’t arrive until 2:30 p.m.
At that point, we gave up on the winery tour. Instead, we decided just to buy some wine and have a bowl of hōtō noodles before heading home. I thought of Chuo Budoshu, a winery where we had once toured the vineyards. There, we picked up three bottles of basic Koshu wine.
But the weather was brutal—35°C. I honestly worried about how to carry the wine home without it spoiling. The best I could do was pack the bottles with chilled mineral water as a makeshift cooler.
We then asked the staff for lunch recommendations nearby, which turned out to be another failure. The first café had no meals left by the time we managed to park. The second place, the famous hōtō restaurant Minakichi, was completely full and sold out right before our turn. My wife, already hot and tired from waiting outside, was understandably at her limit. Fortunately, the third place we tried, IWAI TERRACE, turned out great. The view was stunning, and although the American-style dishes were a bit pricey, they were generous and tasty enough to make everyone happy. Even more surprisingly, the restaurant was attached to Maruki Winery, so we picked up two inexpensive bottles of red wine there as well.
On the way home, we also bought some grapes—outlet Shine Muscat and Kyoho—at a roadside vineyard. Not peak season yet, but still a good deal. The only problem was that we now had five bottles of wine plus several boxes of grapes. With four adults in the car, we had no choice but to store everything in the hot trunk for several hours, which I worried might ruin them.
The return trip was even worse than the drive out. Traffic bottlenecked near the Kobutsu Tunnel, where three lanes shrink to two. On top of the blazing heat, cars started breaking down or crashing—likely from overheating or drivers dozing off—making the jam even worse. We left Katsunuma after 4 p.m. and didn’t get home until 8 p.m. My exhausted wife declared, “Never again on the Chuo Expressway on a weekend.” (Though to be fair, the kids did all the driving.)
Still, as a “highway driving lesson,” it wasn’t a total loss. They got to practice interchanges, service areas, lane changes, and merging, so at least they learned the basics.
As for me, I actually enjoyed being back in Katsunuma after so long. Next time, I’d like to visit again—preferably on a weekday, or by train—so I can fully enjoy winery-hopping.